...and so it begins
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: az
Well, here is the little rig I made for sparking the coil. No spark at plug, just spark at the blue wire terminal when I touched the free end of the jumper to it. Not even sure if the condenser is good. Maybe Ill go to Radio Snack tomorrow and see if they have a 0.33MFD cap.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 209
Likes: 8
From: Northern Wisconsin
Well, here is the little rig I made for sparking the coil. No spark at plug, just spark at the blue wire terminal when I touched the free end of the jumper to it. Not even sure if the condenser is good. Maybe Ill go to Radio Snack tomorrow and see if they have a 0.33MFD cap.
But remember that you can have 12V to the coil and still have a high resistance connection in the power supply to it. When you apply load to it (current thru the coil primary) the high resistance connection causes the supply voltage to the coil to drop and you get no spark. That's why I mentioned to check the voltage to the coil when you make connection to ground with the jumper and you got full current flowing in the primary. You do need to verify that that coil supply circuit is good, even though it may not tell you to do that in the FSM.
Really sounds, though, like the coil is bad. Testing it with that method, and good power to the coil, is a pretty foolproof method of making it spark. Obviously neither the primary nor secondary windings in the coil are open. But that doesn't mean you didn't have a breakdown in the enamel insulation on the windings and shorted to the core or to each other. Did you check for a continuity reading between the primary and secondary windings? That would for sure indicate a problem.
The readings you gave earlier are not necessarily too far out of range without knowing the exact specs on that Andrews coil. But that doesn't mean something didn't go on vacation in it either.
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: az
Well this is fun...maybe this bikes destiny is to fill the slot in my garage next to my old Monkey Wards lawnmower (the steam powered one). Got the replacement module, and it is a newer 7-pin replacement for the original, OEM one (round/four pin), which is NLA. There is (was) an adapter harness, but cannot seem to find that either. I am sure this has already happened to others...anyone have info/schematic so I could just cut the leads off the old module, and solder/heat shrink them onto the new one?
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: az
--Tommy C... that is a good idea...I checked their site, they do not seem to. Well, after doing some more research, I found a .pdf file for the harness, with wire colors for both the harness, that also lists the original color codes...only three wires do a color change, so tomorrow I'm gonna break out the soldering iron and do some surgery! I don't have it registered yet, so if I blow something up, hopefully the homeowners policy will cover it 
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