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May 16, 2016 | 11:28 PM

#31

E-Cigrettman

Advanced

Joined: May 2016

Posts: 94

Likes: 3

From: Howe Tx

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skiprrrdog

Gas tank switch?

I think he means swap.

May 22, 2016 | 01:41 PM

#32

baggerrob

Novice

Joined: May 2016

Posts: 22

Likes: 0

From: Hamilton Virginia

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skiprrrdog

Gas tank switch?

i think i was drunk when i posted that, my question was, when you swapped out the old tank for the new one was it pretty straight forward?

May 22, 2016 | 02:35 PM

#33

WP50

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 6,185

Likes: 2,134

From: W. Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harley-Davidson

But remember that you can have 12V to the coil and still have a high resistance connection in the power supply to it. When you apply load to it (current thru the coil primary) the high resistance connection causes the supply voltage to the coil to drop and you get no spark. That's why I mentioned to check the voltage to the coil when you make connection to ground with the jumper and you got full current flowing in the primary. You do need to verify that that coil supply circuit is good, even though it may not tell you to do that in the FSM.

I'll ask before just putting this out there. In the testing you (couple others I think too) are asking him to do. If the bike fires with the jumper wire from the + batt. to the + side of coil the problem is in the supply of voltage or amperage coming to the + side of coil.

I have tested circuits in autos that would show 12v on a Volt meter and lite a test light (a newer one) as well but there was still a problem. The meter would show 12 v but not enough current flow or amperage flow to operate the whatever. What I learned to due was to rig up a Hologen headlamp to use as the test light. If the circuit could lite it up, it's been good. Kind of a load test for the circuit.

Is the supply to the +side of coil coming out of a Module??

WP