center clutch pushrod?
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 167
Likes: 12
From: florida
center clutch pushrod?
Havin a prob, had hard time finding neutral, replaced ramp, bearing, adjusted everything as ive always done, could find neutral for a while, t
Now havin hard time with it again! Could be center pushrod wear? I have 140000 on my 89...
Now havin hard time with it again! Could be center pushrod wear? I have 140000 on my 89...
Boy does that sound familiar! I've fiddled with mine a million different ways.
A few observations:
- Mine didn't really get better until I replaced my primary chain. Don't know if that was cause and effect, but it is what it is. Before the new chain, neutral was an adventure. Now, it's a piece of cake.
- IIRC, the manual calls for backing out the adjustment bolt from between 1/2 and 3/4 of a turn after it makes contact. What works for me is being on the low side of that range, to the point of being even a little shy of 1/2 turn.
- I've also come to setting less free play in the clutch cable than I used to. Instead of a "nickle's" worth, maybe a dime's.
As to your specific question about wear on the rod, I don't know. It does seem to me that any wear on the rod would be automatically compensated for by the adjustment process.
Hope that was at least a little helpful!
A few observations:
- Mine didn't really get better until I replaced my primary chain. Don't know if that was cause and effect, but it is what it is. Before the new chain, neutral was an adventure. Now, it's a piece of cake.
- IIRC, the manual calls for backing out the adjustment bolt from between 1/2 and 3/4 of a turn after it makes contact. What works for me is being on the low side of that range, to the point of being even a little shy of 1/2 turn.
- I've also come to setting less free play in the clutch cable than I used to. Instead of a "nickle's" worth, maybe a dime's.
As to your specific question about wear on the rod, I don't know. It does seem to me that any wear on the rod would be automatically compensated for by the adjustment process.
Hope that was at least a little helpful!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,117
Likes: 7,641
From: Poolville
Omaha is correct. The rod wear is compressed by the clutch adjustment. Get a dial indicator and check how much movement you have at the clutch adjusting screw. You should have .080" of travel. Anything less Than .070"will make it hard to locate nuetral. How many miles on the clutch? Cause that as well will make it difficult...
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 942
Likes: 323
From: Grew up in Texas, moved to AZ
With those many miles on your bike, some of these suggestions are probably ones you already considered or looked at: overfilled primary, check spring diaphram, maybe readjust clutch again.
Can you find neutral easy when turning engine off? Rocking bike back and forth? From 2nd gear.
Can you find neutral easy when turning engine off? Rocking bike back and forth? From 2nd gear.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 17
From: Rosamond, Cali
I was having a hard time finding neutral with my stock 5-speed (91 FLSTC). I had a Rivera 6-speed installed (because I wanted 6 speeds, not because it was hard to find neutral) and the problem is resolved. I don't know that it's the transmission, probably not. But the clutch was removed, and when it was put back in everything was re-adjusted, and new Formula+ added to the primary. Same primary chain, same clutch parts. Just adjustments (and a different trans). For what it's worth.
Alan
Alan
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,852
Likes: 2,494
From: Decatur, Alabama
Have you checked the tension on your primary chain? I believe I've read that a too tight primary chain can make it hard to find neutral.
carl
carl
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 339
From: Northeastern Indiana
My '96 has 146000 and the only time I was having trouble my clutch was going bad. Replaced that and it went away. I find neutral from 1st, I put a little up pressure on the shifter and blip the throttle, it usually pops right into neutral.
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Joe Kucinski
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,180
Likes: 12,754
From: South Carolina
You need to go through the entire clutch adjustment process, there is more to it on your clutch than on the `90 and later clutches.
First you must adjust the diaphragm spring, this must be done before you adjust anything else, it is in the manual.
After that is done, you can go through the normal clutch and cable adjustment process.
Make sure primary lube level only comes up to the outside diameter of the clutch outer shell (bike vertical).
Primary chain adjusted correctly.
Make sure shift lever at transmission is not loose on the shaft.
It`s a 1989- don`t expect miracles finding neutral.
First you must adjust the diaphragm spring, this must be done before you adjust anything else, it is in the manual.
After that is done, you can go through the normal clutch and cable adjustment process.
Make sure primary lube level only comes up to the outside diameter of the clutch outer shell (bike vertical).
Primary chain adjusted correctly.
Make sure shift lever at transmission is not loose on the shaft.
It`s a 1989- don`t expect miracles finding neutral.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jul 4, 2016 at 08:46 AM.
Stage I
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio
Out dates post but may help someone
It sounds to me like your spring plate is going bad the brass rivits that hold plate together lol off over time and will make your clutch lever tighten and loosen as well as cause a number of shifting issues check your primary oil if brass is detected do not ride in till repaired you could do a lot more damage to clutch plates basket and release bearing hope this helps someone
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