Hey guys, this shouldn't be rocket science, but is there a trick to getting the ignition switch on a '95 and older bagger??? Looks like the inner fairing needs to be removed.. Having had the bike down to nearly nothing, this is one thing I've never had to do but it looks to be pretty labor intensive for a damn switch... Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.The manual shows the '96 and newer with a convenient little trap door......

 

I think you'll find it's a case of take a deep breath and dive in.......

 

Yea, I suppose your right....... Was really hoping that there'd be some sort of trick someone has found... I dont just dont see one and it looks like its gonna SUCK! I'll add details when I get it done though...

 

Nope.. It sucks!!!

 

I didn't need to remove the inner fairing on my 92. On it, when you pulled the radio and took off some kind of protective shield over the switch, you could pull a pin with needle nose pliers that released the switch top. The exact procedure is in your FSM, which you really want to have for this adventure. At some point after 92, not sure when, the switch top had a depress-able tab underneath that was exposed when in a certain position and allowed the top of the switch to come off. Again, reference the FSM.

 

Yea, for the lock cyl, its pretty straight forward. Its the damn electric switch thats under the fairing thats the problem.

 

It's been a while since I did mine, but it seems like it came out from the bottom once I had the cylinder out and the retaining nut removed. Of course, the reason I was taking it out was so I could remove the inner, so I probably had a whole bunch of other stuff already disassembled.

I do remember that putting it back together was like some kind of sadistic Rubik's Cube.

 

Only the government and Harley engineers could make something so simple, so difficult....

 

Ok, yea, it sucks! Moreso because I really didn't need to do it.. So, on the way back from my trip, 2x, it bucked a bit, like the power had been turned off and on very quickly.. After washing the bike and putting it back in the shop, I lost all power from the switch, however the starter would still crank the bike with the auxiliary button. Knowing there was once a recall on the switch, I didn't even bother checking it out.. I brought the $120 switch home last night and put it in only to find out the main power ckt breaker under the seat had failed!! Having been a flat rate tech most of my life, this isn't the first time I've wrongly jumped to a conclusion. End of the day, I'm cool with it for the peace of mind factor and learning experience, but feel like a dumb *** none the less.... So, learn from my experience.. When I get a little time, I'll be adding a little detail on the job and some pics.. Again, from a flat rate perspective, I did something that isn't endorsed, but I feel made it a bit easier.. it took a couple of beers and about an hour or so, kind of got side tracked a couple of times..

 

I was having major problems with my 91 Ultra frequently "cutting out/no electrics" without warning , leaving me in dangerous situations on the highways. Sometimes I would be able to turn the Ignition Switch off and on and the Ultra would start up again. On other occasions I would wait for 30 mins or more before the bike would start again. Eventually my auto electric trained buddy "hot wired" the wiring to
bypass the Ignition Switch (91 OEM ). Success!
I then purchased a reasonably priced new aftermarket switch for $50. After rewiring it worked perfectly although it doesnt look as good as the OEM Switch but cost was important to me.
The Switch I used as a replacement for the OEM Switchwas a Chrome Round Key, 3 position,3 wire and was suitable for a Sportster F X 73 up. My Auto Electric buddy said that it would work after a bit of rewiring. He was right and after 1.1/2 years I havent had any problems.
Outlaw is bang on with his reply re dismantling OEM Ignition Switch.
Bungo