Check Engine Light
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 604
Likes: 5
From: North GA.
S&S Part was not correct. When I pulled the ETS from the head, the bolt sizes on the 2 sensors where different sizes, no way the S&S part would even thread in. Luckily my closest HD shop was open Sunday and had the part in stock. Went and got part number 32446-95. All is well. I filmed the swap as well, so I will be posting that to youtube for any one who might need help doing it.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 604
Likes: 5
From: North GA.
A short video about pulling codes from 96-98 EG's with FI. If any one else needs it, I couldn't find one, so I made one.
Also that S&S sensor will not work for a 96. I will also post my ETS replacement video when I publish it, or subscribe to my channel and get notified when it publishes.
Also that S&S sensor will not work for a 96. I will also post my ETS replacement video when I publish it, or subscribe to my channel and get notified when it publishes.
Last edited by 02Deuces; Oct 31, 2016 at 10:13 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,057
Likes: 1,115
From:
Unfortunate that no other source for the temp sensor has been found.
It seems like a very simple product and rather unusual that we have been unable to locate an alternative.
Rather odd that you got a temp sensor code but NO operational problem.
The temp sensor usually or almost always presents with a flip flop of idle or very bad driving issues of getting unexpected throttle surges.
It surges from wanting to turn off to high idle radically and quickly and makes riding very difficult.
When sensor is bad it is usually like riding a wild bull.
I believe it is due to the little engine idle control actuator getting incorrect information from the engine temp sensor and causing actuator plunger to push the lever radically.
A possible get home solution would be to disconnect the electrical connector to actuator while plunger is in.
It would require holding the throttle during warm-up but all else should function correctly.
I wonder if your situation was due to a loose battery cable or a bad ground connection instead.
Fairing bikes are known to have reports regarding a bad ground cable inside the fairing near the radio.
A lack of ground can cause odd things to happen.
I would check my battery cables at both ends really well.
Then i would check my electrical system at the battery posts with a simple handheld digital voltage meter at rest (all off), cranking and just above idle and report back.
Having the battery tested would be a good idea also.
The meter in the fairing is not accurate and basically just indicates the bike is running.
I doubt you have a bad stator or voltage regulator.
Since the light went off it would indicate a historical code and not an active code.
Again rather strange since the temp sensor code rarely comes up but instead presents the flip/flop throttle situation.
The off/on of light is historical.. Like something happened and then went away.
Being a 1996 with 25,000 miles i would think it might be outside of normal for temp sensor to go bad.
Again, from a distance it is reading like a bad battery, a bad ground connection behind fairing or your battery cables are loose at one of the four ends or some grounding point someplace.
One thing that is very common but unrelated to your symptom is the cam position sensor melting a beige goo out of the timer cone bottom. By your right foot just under the cone wire exit. But that present with very difficult starting...lots of cranking, more cranking, a little more cranking, then just a little more cranking...wait 1 minute and lightly tap start button and it starts immediately.
It seems like a very simple product and rather unusual that we have been unable to locate an alternative.
Rather odd that you got a temp sensor code but NO operational problem.
The temp sensor usually or almost always presents with a flip flop of idle or very bad driving issues of getting unexpected throttle surges.
It surges from wanting to turn off to high idle radically and quickly and makes riding very difficult.
When sensor is bad it is usually like riding a wild bull.
I believe it is due to the little engine idle control actuator getting incorrect information from the engine temp sensor and causing actuator plunger to push the lever radically.
A possible get home solution would be to disconnect the electrical connector to actuator while plunger is in.
It would require holding the throttle during warm-up but all else should function correctly.
I wonder if your situation was due to a loose battery cable or a bad ground connection instead.
Fairing bikes are known to have reports regarding a bad ground cable inside the fairing near the radio.
A lack of ground can cause odd things to happen.
I would check my battery cables at both ends really well.
Then i would check my electrical system at the battery posts with a simple handheld digital voltage meter at rest (all off), cranking and just above idle and report back.
Having the battery tested would be a good idea also.
The meter in the fairing is not accurate and basically just indicates the bike is running.
I doubt you have a bad stator or voltage regulator.
Since the light went off it would indicate a historical code and not an active code.
Again rather strange since the temp sensor code rarely comes up but instead presents the flip/flop throttle situation.
The off/on of light is historical.. Like something happened and then went away.
Being a 1996 with 25,000 miles i would think it might be outside of normal for temp sensor to go bad.
Again, from a distance it is reading like a bad battery, a bad ground connection behind fairing or your battery cables are loose at one of the four ends or some grounding point someplace.
One thing that is very common but unrelated to your symptom is the cam position sensor melting a beige goo out of the timer cone bottom. By your right foot just under the cone wire exit. But that present with very difficult starting...lots of cranking, more cranking, a little more cranking, then just a little more cranking...wait 1 minute and lightly tap start button and it starts immediately.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 604
Likes: 5
From: North GA.
Thanks for all that info! I will check the grounds. Since replacing the ETS, i've had no issues at all. Bike is running great. Well other then a strange back feed of static though my rear speakers even with the radio off. I had to turn the bike off and back on to get it to stop...Only did it once.
Last edited by 02Deuces; Nov 2, 2016 at 02:00 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,057
Likes: 1,115
From:
Your temp sensor itself can be tested with most simple voltage meters by measuring resistance at a couple of temps off the bike.
Harbor Freight has coupons sometimes for a free meter that works.
The values should be in the service manual.
I think HOT (over 200 F) was something like 150 OHM and COLD (under 50 F) in the thousands
Harbor Freight has coupons sometimes for a free meter that works.
The values should be in the service manual.
I think HOT (over 200 F) was something like 150 OHM and COLD (under 50 F) in the thousands
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post