Brake time
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Outstanding HDF Member
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Brake time
I finally pulled the trigger on new rotors and pads for the front. I can't take another year of warped rotors. Question is aside from the caliper pins, should I remove the piston rubber boot and grease the piston. I'm not rebuilding the calipers, they seem okay.
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From: Poolville
And I thought it was lunch time. Anyways no don't disrupt the dust cover and don't grease. If you do it will collect road dust and eventually bind. The only time you would use a silicone base lubricant is when assembling from a rebuild.
You should consider rebuilding though if your gonna replace the rotors.... Don't forget to flush the system as well....
Usually only takes a six pack..... Lol
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Mar 31, 2017 at 10:17 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Western CT
My question to you is...have you had an issue with the piston sticking in the bore? If so, do a complete caliper rebuild or replace. If not, personally, I don't see the need to introduce a sticky substance that could collect dirt etc. Do make sure you do a complete brake fluid flush if not done in the last several years. That's cheap and easy insurance.
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I flushed the fluid in the last year and greased the pins etc, I just never changed the pads because the rotors were warped. I don't believe they are hanging I intend to heck again they all seem to drag some but sticking, no. I don't know any way to check the drag vs sticking other than giving the wheel a spin to make sure it goes around a turn or two
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From: Canton, Michigan
What model bike? I just finished up cleaning the front brakes on my 93 FLHS, due to sticking calipers. Douched everything with brake cleaner, scrubbed all the built up crud off the parts. Only part that I greased was the lower pin when I re-assembled. 25-30 lb/ft for the torque spec on mine.
The pads will have a light drag on the rotor. Nature of the design. But if the wheel doesn't spin, time to clean them.
The pads will have a light drag on the rotor. Nature of the design. But if the wheel doesn't spin, time to clean them.
Last edited by Hackd; Mar 31, 2017 at 10:23 AM.
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98 FXDL so it's dual front. Its not that I'm against rebuilding I just don't think it needs it and seems like I'd be throwing another $70 in rebuild parts plus fluid at it for nothing.
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From: Poolville
What model bike? I just finished up cleaning the front brakes on my 93 FLHS, due to sticking calipers. Douched everything with brake cleaner, scrubbed all the built up crud off the parts. Only part that I greased was the lower pin when I re-assembled. 25-30 lb/ft for the torque spec on mine.
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Elite HDF Member
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From: Canton, Michigan
Clean and see. I'm hoping that fixes my issue. You can also partially extend the pistons and see if there is any crud on them that might cause them to hang up. Don't go too far, or they'll pop out. I did one side at a time.
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Outstanding HDF Member
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I've got some of that CRC think it's synthetic brake grease. I asked you guys last time I used it if it was the right stuff and it was ok for the pins and safe. I remember the pistons looked clean last time but I haven't taken it apart yet so that might have changed.
Edit. Pretty sure it's CRC 5351
Edit. Pretty sure it's CRC 5351
Last edited by br549A1; Mar 31, 2017 at 10:33 AM.
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From: Canton, Michigan
Same stuff I used on mine.
My FSM recommends: Dow Corning 44 grease for the pins. But the CRC syn grease is fine. And GE Versilube G322L for re-building the pistons (GE sold the grease busines to Novagard, but Novagard Versilube G322L is available).
My FSM recommends: Dow Corning 44 grease for the pins. But the CRC syn grease is fine. And GE Versilube G322L for re-building the pistons (GE sold the grease busines to Novagard, but Novagard Versilube G322L is available).