Transmission Leak Question
Doubt it's wasps being in North Dakota. There not out yet but checking the vent tube is a great idea. Might check the tube then rubber band a balloon at the end to see if that's how I'm losing the fluid.
Also, since I have your DD6 would that have an impact on the fluid capacity?
Also, since I have your DD6 would that have an impact on the fluid capacity?
Cruiser
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 122
Likes: 26
From: SEARK
I had "oil" blowing on my pipes and all the way back to my saddlebag in a short period of time on a '95 I just bought. I thought it was coming from the OE breather return to the intake, as I had some oil hanging out inside the oil filter. So I put on a breather kit and that didn't fix it at all. On further inspection, I found all of my transmission top cover bolts loose to various degrees and it was transmission fluid blowing out from under the top cover.. I snugged all these down and the leaking slowed tremendously, such that there is only a bit of weeping on the housing. I've since purchased an OE gasket for the transmission cover and the little triangle for the oil dipstick. That should put a complete stop to it (if I get around to doing it... right now, I'm satisfied; a little bit of leaking oil keeps surface rust at bay!)
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 619
From: North Dakota & Minnesota
UPDATE
Placed a balloon with a clamp over the vent tube. Yep, too much Red Line in the tranny. Fluid was just venting out the top. What I did wrong was to check the fluid level cold so I kept adding it until I hit the full line on the dipstick. Now I understand how much warm fluid expends. LOL
Guess it pays to read the manual to put in the correct volume then check when warm.
Placed a balloon with a clamp over the vent tube. Yep, too much Red Line in the tranny. Fluid was just venting out the top. What I did wrong was to check the fluid level cold so I kept adding it until I hit the full line on the dipstick. Now I understand how much warm fluid expends. LOL
Guess it pays to read the manual to put in the correct volume then check when warm.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
It certainly pays to read the manual, but don't simply put in a fixed volume of oil - go by the dip-stick. The volume isn't reliable either! Be cautious, take for a run and check when you get back with a hot engine. Same applies to the engine oil.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,593
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
Actually different bikes may, of course, be different and a lot of newer ones are calibrated on the stand. However, for most of the older stuff, it's level. The transmission dipstick is calibrated for cold. The primary level is cold and the cold for the engine is mid stick and to the top hot.
Just quoting what is in the owner's manuals and service manuals.
Just quoting what is in the owner's manuals and service manuals.
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 619
From: North Dakota & Minnesota
Actually different bikes may, of course, be different and a lot of newer ones are calibrated on the stand. However, for most of the older stuff, it's level. The transmission dipstick is calibrated for cold. The primary level is cold and the cold for the engine is mid stick and to the top hot.
Just quoting what is in the owner's manuals and service manuals.
Just quoting what is in the owner's manuals and service manuals.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,593
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From: Honah Lee
I gave fair warnings for older stuff and not antiques I guess?..
.. 10 minutes for a 4 speed to check the oil. That is $40 in shop fees at a local shop nowadays.
.. 10 minutes for a 4 speed to check the oil. That is $40 in shop fees at a local shop nowadays.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jun 8, 2017 at 08:51 AM.
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