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That is a very light compressing spring, compared to the one on my wife’s bones.
I never measured the soring in the way that you asked. But I’m willing to consider that the difference is probably not 3/4” or close to what you get.
in fact, the picture I posted of my bike shows a very tight wind compared to yours.
Here’s what I think in regards to the springs on yours. And that is that those springs would be better suited for a rake with a wider angle.
On the bones, the rake is almost sport rake.
With a taller wheel and a more raked angle, it would make sense to use a lighter spring load.
But ot on a bike with 16 up front and 16 out back.
Okay I do understand what you are saying..... but it is a stock frame so the rake is stock for the year 94, the lighter spring load is what concerns me, like I said with a little effort I can spin the spring with my hand with tire on the ground and some what easier with it of the ground.... light is one thing, loose is something else. And the dealer at this point is as useless as a bag of turds.He sold me the goods and basically said you bought it you figure it out..
That fork is not a stock HD fork.
That said, you can easily stiffen those spring using spacers. Or different springs. Ot that I my self is capable of doing this, but it can be done.
nNo, turning thise srpings y hand just has wrong written all over it.
Trust me I know That is why I am asking, it seems the only answers I get pointing me in right direction, are from people I never met which good by me. Thanks
Compression is compression.
Weight auses it. The question you are after is, what is the right amount.
You might be able to determine that by riding it?
Or based on specks.
You can try the seat of your pants estimate first. And go from there. But go slow and increase to a more aggressive pace in small in rements till you begin to find its weakness.
But start out sloweer by stayin in your neighborhood.
Infact, slow. Intermediate and fast all need to be dialed in.
Why a number determined by a speck sheet is probably your best bet.
Wheel height. Proper tire inflation. Rider weight which determines sag are all key.
Riding impression IMO is represented by these factors.
But you eed some ball park figures to start with at first.
And I don’t like the idea that the springs can be turned by hand one bit.
There’s no friggin way that is okay.
Compression is compression.
Weight auses it. The question you are after is, what is the right amount.
You might be able to determine that by riding it?
Or based on specks.
Why a number determined by a speck sheet is probably your best bet.
But you eed some ball park figures to start with at first.
And I don’t like the idea that the springs can be turned by hand one bit.
There’s no friggin way that is okay.
I see what you are saying, But the problem is I need a starting number or a spec sheet, none which I can find. And yes the spring movement is not cool. And when I asked the dealer about it I was told it comes from the factory according to specs. which is not true. there is always tweeking involved. But anyway thanks for your input.
If you can move the bottom springs with the front end on the ground, you have something very wrong. Also, if you mounted your fender to the bolt that holds the rod to the springer, you're gonna have problems. If you hit a hard bump the tire will hit the fender if it is too close. You need to have someone that KNOWS springers look at that thing before you hurt yourself.
This is the springer off my bobber. It is a Paughco also. I have it off changing the neck bearings and rocker bushings.
You can NOT move those springs, top or bottom by hand. Something is amiss on yours I fear.
Last edited by Pothole914; Feb 8, 2018 at 07:13 PM.
Thanks, Now I have a good picture of a proper set up and I think I got it some what figured out, your bottom springs look uniform, mine look like they threw them in and put a nut on. is it possible to get a side picture of the set up.Thanks