I cant tell ya what to do.
My preference is like i said, whatever is needed for the stock bottom end ,
Fly cut cases for 97 inch Axtel jugsl.
Its the best of all worlds because they cast iron and will not move around and seal better., much better.
The bottom ends in an evo are good unless you want ti spin them really fast.
UsE LOTS OF RED LOCTITE on all the pinion gear components.
You need a cam too
However its all your call.
Carry on

 

The numbers are important to me. Not just for the legal paperwork or potential issues, but just because. I bought my FLHT new. Opened the box myself. I'm not planning on ever selling it. They can put it up for auction after I'm dead. Don't care.

 

in my shop we never consider a crate engine till the cost of repair on the original does not make sense

new set of rods comes with the crank pin all the rollers and nuts

pinion and sprocket are attached to the wheels unless something is real bad re use them - pictures for a suggestion

2 pistons and ring set with the boring is not that expensive - even replacing all the valves and guides is not really expensive

engine gasket and bearing set is also not in everything I listed making a 7 to 9 thousand dollar engine a go to thing

join a UK site and ask about the shops local to you ----- stop at all the shops local to you and take a look at the shop the guys and how they treat you - if your comfortable with one have them piece it for you so you can see each thing they do and re assemble with questions on this site or another -- cheapest deal your going to get

 

 

Flycut= make the holes in the cases larger for the bigger cylinders.
Axtel will give you a pretty good deal if you buy their jugs...shipping might be killler on your end?
Cams- bigger is better. to a point.

 

He's talking about making the holes in the cases that the jugs slip into bigger so that the bigger jugs/pistons will fit. Fly cut is a term for using the tool that spins around cutting the cases.

 

Ah i see , that makes sense,

well thanks for the help guys i guess i have a lot of thinking and calculations to do, my dad thinks new engine is the way to go because even a full rebuild doesn't guarantee it wont have problems when finished, ?

Hmm ... Big decisions, mind you i have time, its not like i can afford either right now lol

Cheers guys

Daz

 

there has been a lot good advice givin here and help getting you to this point.. Power?? power cost money, it equates to how fast do you want to go, and how well does that fast equate with wear and tear in the motor.

An evo can be made to give good power with good longevity.

a reputable shop can hone your big end of the rods and install over sized bearings giving you solid rods repair, for not too much outlay ( cash)

bringing the compression up by milling the heads is a good way for more power that is usable and free other than the cost of milling which most shops don't charge that much.

Now the pistons...weisco's 8:5.1 ... my preference***

after the bottom end has been built, you attach the pistons onto the rods...( with out oil and no clips, no rings) just using the supplied wrist pins, and slip the cyls over the pistons( after being rebored to either .010 over or whatever it takes to clean them up )..then find out where the pistons sits ( how much out of the cyl or down in the cyl.. at TDC... there is a basic formula* for creating a well running motor here**

you can most certainly can mill the heads .050 this brings up the compression to the plus 9:2.1 area ( with weisco 8:5.1 pistons ) great for high test gas, good power and not too much that you have to work out timing issues with detonation.

now say your piston at TDC are .010 out of the hole... with .050 milled off the head, you look to settle the quench* area and squish area* ( that big flat spot in the head chamber) you are looking for a squish in the .036-.040 range .

with gaskets is how you accomplish this... you have a piston that is .010 out of the hole at TDC**... with an .030 head gasket, and a .020 base gasket you subtract the piston (.010 () from the total of the two gaskets ( .050 ) which leaves .040 the top of the desired squish..which is good.

now you have a base formula for a good running and excellent intake supply and exhaust scavenging working head. with good compression...

Now for the cam..your SE cam is a decent cam and would give you a good running motor with good power to the 5500 range.

this would be you easiest and most economical * sporty* powered motor.. its not going to be a drag strip killer** but, it will run "good and strong and last" giving you a very nice on the throttle feel...with that Mikuni 42 you already have... you have choices..spend a lot for great power or spend for really nice all around power at an economical level..

 

now to the head... a good 3 angle valve job, with a high flow* exhaust valve.
and ported heads with the exhaust ported and polished... the guide bosses* veined * and smoothed, with the short side radiuses in the ports blended....another quick and easy power flowing part of the equation...

with what has been outlined here ( I prefer the CompCams V-thunder series cams for the street ) the V-4000 is nice in the 1500-5500 the V-4020 is a good power cam in the 2000-5500 range and above if you chose to rev it to the 6000 area.


this is an economical build that yields really good usable power and longevity with what you already have in your hands to work with

 

valve train...

Johnson Hylift lifters... really good lifters,,,,,( or my choice which is the feuling HP+ lifters ).... S&S quickee pushrod kit.... high volumn oil pump... you are good to go...