Excluding the cam and pushrods I don't think the motor is stock. While you have the heads off I would take them to a local Indy and have them cc'd. That real late ivc of 49* would indicate to me that the compression was most likely pumped up a bit, possibly with head work..

 

Cheers mate, I will look into that. Today was a good day, motor wise anyway.
I will replace cam bearing and all gaskets, rebuild the carb as that's needed, and get heads done over. Pretty cheap as I don't need cam etc.

Dave.

 

You need to evaluate why those head internal thread bolts came loose in the first place. Harley calls them: "screw, internal thread #16478-85a and #16480-92a" (numbers 9 and 10 in diagram below:




FYI: In 1994 you had some engines (prior to around April) with the cylinder studs had the collars pointing up, and after April harley switched to the collars down or seated on the block. Collars down since then.

Anyways, often the head internal thread bolt comes loose because the actual cylinder stud came loose at the block. So you should really pull the cylinders and take a good look at the cylinder studs where they thread into the block. If original, one end of the stud is a standard 3/8-16 thread and the other (at the block) uses a 3/8-16 interference thread, and sometimes if someone has been in there before they see the collars up, and then decide to flip the original cylinder studs installing them with collars down. This creates a new problem with how the head internal thread bolt torques onto the stud and how the stud torques to the block.

Basically they incorrectly flip the old original stud, and now the interference thread that was in the block is now the threads that the head internal thread bolt screws onto. The problem is the head internal thread bolt was not made for the interference thread and does not screw on smoothly, so when someone torques the head internal thread bolt onto the stud (flowing Harley or head gasket manufacturer's torque values), the head internal thread bolt is improperly seated or the torque value is wrong and it puts additional stress on the aluminum threads down at the block. See harley bulletin #1043:

https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/akti...hmentId=732052

Hopefully the threads in the cylinder block are OK. If you find a problem with the cylinder studs and decide to start removing the studs from the block and they don't come off using a double nut method at the top of the stud, STOP! , don't force or twist the stud. There is a high risk of messing up the threads in the block. There is a certain type of stud puller that will remove them without twisting and bending, or I have a trick with a simple home made tool I can send you a pic or two that makes removing a stuck stud more successful. I have read many posts about difficult to remove studs and have replaced mine with S&S studs and had to deal with one stuck stud.

In a perfect world, someone did not torque the head internal thread bolts properly (not using oil on the threads or under side of the head bolt) and they simply came loose because of that or improper torque values. I hope it is not an issue with your cylinder studs threads at the block.


The interference thread on the left is/was originally threaded in the block at the factory prior to April 1994 based on Harley bulletin 1043. Note the squared off peaks or crown on the threads...if those originals get flipped to collars down, the head internal thread bolt does not like torqueing down accurately or completely, so flipping original cylinder studs is a no no.

Sorry, getting a little too detailed, and hope your problem is simple, but also hope you don't have to deal with effed up cylinder stud threads in the block road....YD

 

fyi, 94 is not in the clear on the cheese based crankcase. my stud pulled on my 94 AFTER the Timesert was tried first and cracked in and out. ultimately, S&S came to the rescue.

 

Thanks guys I will check the suds after Breakfast.
I checked the Crankcase number and mine is built 10th January.
As it was those two head bolts previously pictured that were loose I am hoping the original builder did not give them there final 45deg turn when he put it together.
The lifters all look in good condition and it was not noisy at all so I will not replace them at this time, will do cam although it looks fine and all gaskets.

Cheers.

 

Go with a.030" head gasket. I use cometic, they have a 4 step torque sequence to 42 ft lbs

 

[looks at watch]

Heh, yeah, true indeed
Strange world, init?

 

 

 

Cheers mate, I will do that.
Thanks for all the help guys, appreciate it.
This is an interesting, wonder what else I will find.

Dave.