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If I had to do it all over again, I would have ordered a large box of those new type of heat shrink tubes with the circle of solder in the center.
I use them at work for 22-14 gauge splices pricey, but they work great. I also have several crimpers ans pin & socket terminals for factory connectors. Nothing beats a neat color coded job.
Some borderline Genius installed the front brake sensor upside down pinching/grounding the red/yellow wire and a possible pinch on the orange/white. I didn't want to cut solder/heat shrink so I took a 1/4 " heat shrink, cut it, wrapped it tight around the wire, took some copper strands, tied em around to hold the heat shrink and hit it with the heat gun.
The wrapping looked good and its boxed up with other wires so I'm OK with em.
Buttoned everything back up, testing the lights as I went. Perfect, except
Back tire is off so I made sure the tranny was still in neutral, hit the start button, nothing.
On the black/red wire going to the starter relay, I stuck my 12V tester in the socket, with the kill switch on I hit the button, the light came on, turned the kill switch off hit the start button, no light. So I plugged the socket back in and hit the start button and it worked.
My question is, WTF. Is this in the same category as you stare into the refrig for a beer, nothing, close the door, open it and find a beer right up front.
Some borderline Genius installed the front brake sensor upside down pinching/grounding the red/yellow wire and a possible pinch on the orange/white. I didn't want to cut solder/heat shrink so I took a 1/4 " heat shrink, cut it, wrapped it tight around the wire, took some copper strands, tied em around to hold the heat shrink and hit it with the heat gun.
The wrapping looked good and its boxed up with other wires so I'm OK with em.
Buttoned everything back up, testing the lights as I went. Perfect, except
Back tire is off so I made sure the tranny was still in neutral, hit the start button, nothing.
On the black/red wire going to the starter relay, I stuck my 12V tester in the socket, with the kill switch on I hit the button, the light came on, turned the kill switch off hit the start button, no light. So I plugged the socket back in and hit the start button and it worked.
My question is, WTF. Is this in the same category as you stare into the refrig for a beer, nothing, close the door, open it and find a beer right up front.
I do this all the time at work also. Seems to easy, but cleaning contacts and reseating terminals and socket is a must. I do it before any other trouble shooting. You just found a bad connection and reseating the socket established continuity. The physical side of electrical circuits is so simple, it's when the wire plug into electronic and computerized devices that the VooDoo begins.
Was out messing around with the bike. For ***** and giggles I pulled the plugs and grounded them. Poured roughly a teaspoon of oil in each jug, waited a few minutes then hit the start button 3 times, about 3 seconds each. On a 4th attempt, nothing. I unplugged the relay, plugged it back in and it worked again.
Was out messing around with the bike. For ***** and giggles I pulled the plugs and grounded them. Poured roughly a teaspoon of oil in each jug, waited a few minutes then hit the start button 3 times, about 3 seconds each. On a 4th attempt, nothing. I unplugged the relay, plugged it back in and it worked again.
My question, can relays work part time.
If your bike is developing the Dreaded Click the relays can work part time.
To fix the dreaded click all you have to do is run a 20amp fused wire between the positive battery post and pin 30 on your relay.
If your bike is developing the Dreaded Click the relays can work part time.
To fix the dreaded click all you have to do is run a 20amp fused wire between the positive battery post and pin 30 on your relay.
#30, the red/black wire at the relay. Am I splicing into that wire, bypassing it.
With my tester stuck inside the backside of the male connector for #30 it lights up when I hit the start button.
By putting a hot wire there wouldn't that cause the starter to continuously engage.
Just read up on an article from 2012, the dreaded click. I'll dig in to it tomorrow.
Last edited by almostakeeper; Dec 21, 2019 at 05:38 PM.
#30, the red/black wire at the relay. Am I splicing into that wire, bypassing it.
With my tester stuck inside the backside of the male connector for #30 it lights up when I hit the start button.
By putting a hot wire there wouldn't that cause the starter to continuously engage.
Just read up on an article from 2012, the dreaded click. I'll dig in to it tomorrow.
Just because it lights up doesn't mean you are getting full voltage.
In every connection in your harness you loose just a bit of voltage and it's worse if the connectors are corroded.
What the fused wire does is bypass the harness and apply full battery voltage to the starter when you hit the start button.
Another idea is to run the wire from pin 30 on the relay to the silver stud on the main breaker, that is how it was done on the old Softails. A nice fat current supply to actuate the solenoid.
The old Softails did not fuse this wire, but a fused wire (as THC suggests) is a good practice, remember to have the fuse close to the power source, be it battery or breaker.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Dec 21, 2019 at 06:10 PM.
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