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Electrical Headscratcher

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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 06:09 AM
  #51  
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I read the Sticky on "The dreaded click". This is what my eyeballs transferred to my brain.

I pull the red/black wire, female blade and all out of the connector for #30, tape it off.

Run a 20 amp fused, heavier gauge wire from my positive battery to the #30 connector complete with a new female blade
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 06:36 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by almostakeeper
Run a 20 amp fused, heavier gauge wire from my positive battery to the #30 connector complete with a new female blade
A cleaner install would be to run the wire to the silver stud of the main breaker, the less connections you have at a battery terminal the better.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 07:51 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by almostakeeper
I read the Sticky on "The dreaded click". This is what my eyeballs transferred to my brain.

I pull the red/black wire, female blade and all out of the connector for #30, tape it off.

Run a 20 amp fused, heavier gauge wire from my positive battery to the #30 connector complete with a new female blade
The female blades the MOCO uses have a small keeper to hold them into the connector housing.
If I were you I'd either cut the red/black wire and slice into it (don't forget to put a bit of heat shrink on the harness side) or buy a new connector from the dealership.

While you can use a regular connector you have to use zip ties to keep it in place.
This is what I did the first time.

Now I use connectors I got at the dealership.

While I agree with Dan that it would be a cleaner look going to the breaker I just wire mine to the battery because it's much easier and I haven't had any problems doing it that way.


 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 11:26 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by almostakeeper

With my tester stuck inside the backside of the male connector for #30 it lights up when I hit the start button.
It takes voltage and current flow (amps) to to work.
You can easily have enough voltage and amps to light a test light. where you might not have enough amperage (current flow) to engage the starter.
It requires alot more amperage to engage the starter that it does to light a test lamp.

WP
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 02:20 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by almostakeeper
With my tester stuck inside the backside of the male connector for #30 it lights up when I hit the start button.
By putting a hot wire there wouldn't that cause the starter to continuously engage.
The wire to the #30 terminal on the starter relay is a hot wire, and when wired per the wiring diagram for a `95, it will be powered whenever the ignition switch is on (this is the high current circuit in the relay)...

The wire going to terminal 86 is the wire that is energized when the start button is pressed (this is the low current circuit of the relay).
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Dec 22, 2019 at 02:25 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 04:12 PM
  #56  
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Since the back tire is off I went ahead and put the fused wire to the main breaker.




Cut about 3" away from the connector, did the crimp/heat shrink. Ran the wire straight down to the main and the fuse has easy access.

I also stuck a small screwdriver in the female tabs in the connector to bend them tighter, plus a shot of electric cleaner for ***** and giggles.

Tested it a few times, works like a charm.

 
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Old Dec 23, 2019 | 04:41 PM
  #57  
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[QUOTE=texashillcountry;18746200]Maybe that was the problem I had scrambled eggs, sausage, hash browns, and toast but not a pie.
Just to be clear you are talking about The bluebonnet café in Marble Falls right?
FWIW there was no line when I was there.

Did someone say Pie





Good ride today, and everyone took home a Christmas pie.
​​
 
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