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On my 1997, I had to take them to an indy to get them apart. There was no way i was going to be able to get it done without destroying the tube. The indy has a hell of a time as well.
Going by your pic, I'd say move it up a bit in the triple tree and then try again. You may be pinching the tube to the threads.
I was really hoping that this was the problem, but unfortunately, no. I moved the tube up as high as it would go (and still leave me room for the wrench), but it still wouldn't budge.
Not that I'm one for giving up easily, but if I can leave that f-ing cap in place, but still replace all the sh*t that wears out, I'm thinking that should be my plan!
Not that I'm one for giving up easily, but if I can leave that f-ing cap in place, but still replace all the sh*t that wears out, I'm thinking that should be my plan!
I agree.
I don't pull that fork nut unless I'm changing springs.
I bought the socket that fits that nut and I put it in a vice then hit it with a rattle gun.
Usually spins right off.
I protect the sides of the tube with two halfmoon pieces of pvc pipe (1 1/4" I think).
The only thing under that cap that gets changed is a couple of plastic split rings that are 99 times out of 100 just fine.
Personally I'd just change the bushings if they need it and install a new fork seal and call it good.
You raise a good point that there is Not much to be done to the Damper internally... But... That has to be some special Socket to go on that top cap which is Round with two Flats.... Not Square nor Hex...
You raise a good point that there is Not much to be done to the Damper internally... But... That has to be some special Socket to go on that top cap which is Round with two Flats.... Not Square nor Hex...
OP, thread # 2 all the way down seated into # 3 , make sure the tube is firmly pinched up in the tree or the vise with some soft jaws then smack downward on # 2 few few good whacks with that lead hammer then try the wrench. I have used a propane torch to heat the upper part of the tube a bit on a few.
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