Hey Folks!

In addition to many other things I'm doing to my 1993 Ultra, I'm refurbishing the front forks. Well, I'm at the point that I'm trying to get the fork cap removed from the first of the two (Item 3 in the figure below, and I've also included a photo), but I can not get it loose. To stop the tube from rotating, I put it back into the lower triple tree bracket and tightened the pinch bolt. I've been using a 13/16" open end wrench, and a 12" length of iron pipe for leverage, but I can't get it to budge. I've even tried whacking the end of the wrench with a lead hammer that I use on the wire wheel knockoffs on my '66 MGB, but no luck.

Am I missing something, or do I just need to try harder?

-Dave

 

Wow... Never had that one!!!
Was it me... I would get a piece of heavy [like schedule 80] steel pipe.. the correct ID for to slip over the cap... but not too sloppy
Then with a Large Mallet [think BFH] hit it ... picture the Cap as a nail, yer trying to Drive it into the tube.. the steel pipe is so you don't booger the cap..
A couple good Raps and generally fasteners loosen up!!!
Caution... I would Not hit with the fork clamped... clamp it in the bottom tree, only to turn/twist...

 

Had the same thing on my 1996 … ended up chucking in a lathe to get a real good grip on the tube … and had to smack it hard with a chisel and hammer to break it loose … afterward had to buy a new Item #3 … maybe a little heat around the top of the tube and smack the pipe you are using to shock it … good luck

 

I gave the cap a couple of whacks with a soft brass punch and a solid hammer, but it didn't loosen the cap. I took the first tube out of the lower triple tree and tried the second one, but its cap is just as f-ing tight.

I don't have a torch, so I can't heat it up. I'm not sure that a Home Depot-style propane torch will do the job, so I may have to find a machine shop. Ugh.

 

Reason for steel pipe is that we are trying to Shock the thing!! a Dead blow type [like lead] is not what i use!!!
If you had a number 2 cap it would be a better protectant than none!!!

 

I just did My 94. But I've had it off once before to do a fork oil change.
Home mechanic way is the pinch bolt way. This worked for me.
There's also a fork clamp that goes in a vice, keeps it from marring the fork tube.
It's only your hesitance that stops it from coming off.
Try a LITTLE heat.

 

Oh, that lead hammer I have isn't a dead blow! It's a heavy MF...really good for whacking things that you don't want to scratch!

In any event, Racepres, I got your point. The pipe I just bought to give me some mechanical advantage has an ID just about right to fit over the cap, so as soon as I'm done doing all the chores my wife wants me to do today, I'm going to go out to the garage and beat the sh*t out of that thing!

-Dave

 

A few good whacks with a heavy Hammer...always beats a bunch of hits with a light one!!!

 

I bought the socket that fits that nut and I put it in a vice then hit it with a rattle gun.
Usually spins right off.
I protect the sides of the tube with two halfmoon pieces of pvc pipe (1 1/4" I think).

The only thing under that cap that gets changed is a couple of plastic split rings that are 99 times out of 100 just fine.
Personally I'd just change the bushings if they need it and install a new fork seal and call it good.

 

Texas,

This is a different nut. On the Ultra, the hex nut you're referring to threads into the fork cap I'm trying to remove. It also holds the air control plenum in place. That one came off without a hitch. This fork cap, however, is a BEEE-YATCH!