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OP, thread # 2 all the way down seated into # 3 , make sure the tube is firmly pinched up in the tree or the vise with some soft jaws then smack downward on # 2 few few good whacks with that lead hammer then try the wrench. I have used a propane torch to heat the upper part of the tube a bit on a few.
If you get one of those motion pro sockets I'd appreciate it if you could measure the inside of the socket and PM me the measurements to compare it to the Jims socket.
The reason I'm curious is a website I looked at said the Motion Pro socket won't fit my bike.
'95 Heritage.
If you get one of those motion pro sockets I'd appreciate it if you could measure the inside of the socket and PM me the measurements to compare it to the Jims socket.
Both the Jims #2043 and the Motion Pro #08-0305 look the same. The description for both products is similar also.
Jims #2043: Use On All Wide Glide Fork Tube Plugs
Motion Pro #08-0305: Used in the removal and installation of fork caps on 1948 and later Wide Glide models
I have a few Motion Pro tools (fork cap socket 1-3/8" hex, tire valve core remover, clutch adjuster socket, 41mm fork seal driver, fork oil level tool, etc), and they seem to be good.
I did have an issue with their RimShield II (possibly my fault), contacted Motion Pro and they sent me a new one without any hassles.
I recently picked up their 36mm axle socket (08-0635) and I'm waiting for my next tire change to check out this tool. I've never been able to remove the axle nut on my Ultra without having to remove the muffler. I'm hoping this tool may allow me to get at the axle nut without having to deal with the muffler. The socket is shorter than the standard 36mm 6-point socket and with the wobble extension, it may just work out.
I have an axle wrench, but that doesn't fit. Seems as though the Ohlins shocks in the rear have a larger mounting assembly than the stock HD shocks. I didn't want to deal with removing the shocks and possibly cross threading something during the re-install when changing a tire.
If you get one of those motion pro sockets I'd appreciate it if you could measure the inside of the socket and PM me the measurements to compare it to the Jims socket.
The reason I'm curious is a website I looked at said the Motion Pro socket won't fit my bike.
'95 Heritage.
Interesting, I'll do some homework beforehand. 40 odd years wrestling with them I've yet to use a dedicated tool for it . I haven't had to cut one out yet. I usually get them after somebody has trashed it then it's the vise with lead jaws and a pipe wrench with a cheater.
Both the Jims #2043 and the Motion Pro #08-0305 look the same. The description for both products is similar also.
Jims #2043: Use On All Wide Glide Fork Tube Plugs
Motion Pro #08-0305: Used in the removal and installation of fork caps on 1948 and later Wide Glide models
I have a few Motion Pro tools (fork cap socket 1-3/8" hex, tire valve core remover, clutch adjuster socket, 41mm fork seal driver, fork oil level tool, etc), and they seem to be good.
I did have an issue with their RimShield II (possibly my fault), contacted Motion Pro and they sent me a new one without any hassles.
I recently picked up their 36mm axle socket (08-0635) and I'm waiting for my next tire change to check out this tool. I've never been able to remove the axle nut on my Ultra without having to remove the muffler. I'm hoping this tool may allow me to get at the axle nut without having to deal with the muffler. The socket is shorter than the standard 36mm 6-point socket and with the wobble extension, it may just work out.
I have an axle wrench, but that doesn't fit. Seems as though the Ohlins shocks in the rear have a larger mounting assembly than the stock HD shocks. I didn't want to deal with removing the shocks and possibly cross threading something during the re-install when changing a tire.
I agree Motion Pro makes good tools.
I have a great many of them myself.
If you get one of those sockets from Motion Pro I'd like to compare the sizes with the Jims one I have.
So I took the group's advice and didn't bother removing the fork cap and spring, and settled for just removing the lower slider so I can replace the oil seal and bushings.
Once the retaining ring was removed, the fork tube separated quite easily from the lower slider using the "slide hammer" method.
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. I haven't had to cut one out yet. I usually get them after somebody has trashed it then it's the vise with lead jaws and a pipe wrench with a cheater.
