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hey folks. 2 years ago i rebuilt my 98 E-GLide (96K miles) redid almost everything, new 120" engine 6spd gear set in stock case, progressive 444's in the back and their springs in the front, new paint and some powder coating.. one of the 2 things i didn't get a chance to change was the stock starter, from what i see they arent cheap and today we had a day with temps nearing 60* which is rare in Pennsylvania this time of year.
i go out to go for a ride and i get click click click click... one click for every push of the button.. could this be just a relay switch or am i looking at the solenoid?
if i do have to go new what brands should i look at and where would you recommend i buy from?
thaanks for any help with this,, at the time another 4-500 bucks for a starter and 6-900 bucks for wheels wasn't in the budget....
Have your battery load tested for free at most automotive stores and make sure your wiring connections are clean and tight. That's where I'd start. And make sure you have enough amps in the battery to crank that engine properly.
I normally do all my own work, but I had a starter issue on my Evo Heritage and was working a lot and didn't have the time or inclination to fool with it so I took it to my local indy. Long story short he sent it out for a rebuild as opposed to buying new.
I bought my 1990 Glide new and rebuilt the starter once. I had the engine stroked to 89" and much later replaced with an S&S 107, then some time later my starter packed up again. I simply replaced it with a larger aftermarket one.
Sounds like a weak battery from sitting. It is winter and it will happen. I'd put a charge on and give it another shot and go from there. As for a stock starter on a 120" motor I hope you got compression releases that's a lot of motor for a stock starter...
"make sure your wiring connections are clean and tight"
Always start with the wiring connections or battery connections...from simple corrosion, to vibration making things loose, it's very common and has happened to me several times, no matter how tight, and clean I think I have made things. Check the positive cable at the starter. Its easy to overtighten and strip so be careful. Also check the relay (R & R) if all else looks good. I had one go bad under warranty. I had to push start the bike until I got it diagnosed.
An auto shop teacher of mine taught us to start with the cheapest and smallest piece in the puzzle. That's what usually goes bad. It's still true today. (At least on Evo's!)
Last edited by SirHarley; Feb 4, 2020 at 07:45 AM.
Reason: addendum correction
hey folks thanks for the reply's, battery is only on it's second season and has plenty of juice. i put a booster box on and it did the same thing.. i will go over all the connections and have it tested just in case.
when i looked at starters before there was a fitment issue with a 2.0k starter, is there a certain type that fit or don't?.. in case i end up getting another starter.
ETA: it is an Ultima 120" with Compression Releases
Last edited by BigMike67; Feb 4, 2020 at 12:05 PM.
To Properly drive a 2.0 starter you going to need a bigger battery. a 1.4 kilowatt starter will sufficiently do the job seeing our old original starters were .8 kilowatt, quite a difference. As said by many others check your grounds and check for voltage drops in and out of the starter solenoid and go from there.
I ran an Ultima "El Bruto" 127 inch engine on a 1.4, or a 1.7 KW starter. I got it from Jireh Cycles, but that was about 10 years ago. I ran a Big Boar Battery (Gel) and had compression releases too
Importantly, if you are using a battery tender to charge, know that you are not getting a full on charge with your battery. I always had to use a Sears Motorcycle battery charger that gave off a hum when it charged Then I could fire my bike up. For some reason battery tenders don't top off batteries to a high level of charge. As long as I rode it regularly, it always started on it's own.
Ps. There are a couple threads on Battery Tenders here on HD forums
Last edited by SirHarley; Feb 4, 2020 at 12:25 PM.
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