Wearing down my last good nerve
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Gruene Texas
Wearing down my last good nerve
OK, so I reinstalled the oil pump cover with a new gasket, put oil back in her, a bit in the jugs with the plugs out to crank the engine to be certain the oil pump light goes out. Hit the starter, Nothing. I'm like WTF, I already did the extra fused wire from the relay to the silver stud and it cranked plenty of times.
Hit the button a bunch more times, pulling in the clutch, making sure it's in neutral, nothing.
Called it a *****, hit the button and it worked. Took about 5 seconds cranking for the oil light to go out initially, and afterwards about 2 to 3 seconds.
My question, I'm going to put a second starter button on the solenoid. Is one brand better then the other. Is this something others have done.
Hit the button a bunch more times, pulling in the clutch, making sure it's in neutral, nothing.
Called it a *****, hit the button and it worked. Took about 5 seconds cranking for the oil light to go out initially, and afterwards about 2 to 3 seconds.
My question, I'm going to put a second starter button on the solenoid. Is one brand better then the other. Is this something others have done.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,849
Likes: 1,389
From: Florida
There is a difference between the cheaper ones and the more expensive ones. I at one time had one that was a drag specialties one that the tolerances were too tight and it wouldn't actuate right.
Moral of the story is buy a nicer one and it will work better. Like the spyke one
Moral of the story is buy a nicer one and it will work better. Like the spyke one
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,175
Likes: 12,748
From: South Carolina
The silver stud on what?
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Feb 13, 2020 at 10:11 AM.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Gruene Texas
This is your advice on "Electrical Headscratcher"
The wire to the #30 terminal on the starter relay is a hot wire, and when wired per the wiring diagram for a `95, it will be powered whenever the ignition switch is on (this is the high current circuit in the relay)...
The wire going to terminal 86 is the wire that is energized when the start button is pressed (this is the low current circuit of the relay).
A cleaner install would be to run the wire to the silver stud of the main breaker, the less connections you have at a battery terminal the better.
The wire to the #30 terminal on the starter relay is a hot wire, and when wired per the wiring diagram for a `95, it will be powered whenever the ignition switch is on (this is the high current circuit in the relay)...
The wire going to terminal 86 is the wire that is energized when the start button is pressed (this is the low current circuit of the relay).
A cleaner install would be to run the wire to the silver stud of the main breaker, the less connections you have at a battery terminal the better.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
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From: South Carolina
You said extra wire, which is confusing...as there should only be one wire...
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Feb 14, 2020 at 09:34 AM.
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Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2014
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Likes: 6,656
From: Gruene Texas
(Another idea is to run the wire from pin 30 on the relay to the silver stud on the main breaker, that is how it was done on the old Softails. A nice fat current supply to actuate the solenoid.
The old Softails did not fuse this wire, but a fused wire (as THC suggests) is a good practice, remember to have the fuse close to the power source, be it battery or breaker)
I went ahead and ordered a 2nd push button starter for the solenoid. With either the on/off switch or the start switch on the handlebars not being reliable, will the new push button bypass both of those or just the start switch.
