It has to have voltage to send the (ground) signal. It's a "hall effect" thing. I don't understand all the witchcraft, creates a magnetic field using low voltage... above my pay grade to understand
Yes, white is supply voltage from switch(s) to coil and module. They just happen to tie together at the coil.
CORRECT, and my apologies. I mis-spoke/typed.
5v (+/- ) .5v at connector from module with switch on.

The voltage between black and green are irrelevant. However, do check ohms between green and black on the timing sensor connector (while unplugged)
One way you should get infinity (no continuity)
Reverse test leads, should have 300-750k ohms

Again, 12v to the white wires at coil and at least the blue wire connected to coil, and with module un-plugged at sensor connector, short the black and green on the module side. When that connection is broken, it should produce a spark at the plug. You can hear it pop.

For what it's worth, I recently had one (module) that checked perfect on all the ohm/volt tests but absolutely would not spark using the above "short/break" test. Replaced it and fired perfectly.

 

You are correct with the function of the cam position sensor (located in the nose cone) and how it signals ignition module and how it all works to fire the coil..

The Hall effect cam position sensor is in the come..

Sorry if I confused you..

 

Where can I find a replacement module?

 

Good... Probably OE... But take the cover off and look just in case..
At the coil.... White wire removed Not touching anything... 12v with key and Run/off switch On??
All wires attached... plugs out and on the Heads grounded... turn motor over... Spark??
No??
look here
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...o-spark-2.html

 

You have very good English Gf1, maybe this will help...

OE = original equipment
EI = electronic ignition
Pickup = timing sensor / cam position sensor is in the nose cone under the timing cover.
Module = box behind right side cover - controls timing and spark to the coil
Nose cone ignition = (aftermarket/non-original) self contained, electronic ignition The ignition module and timing sensor are one unit in the same housing that fits in the timing cover (nose cone)

 

Thanks for the elucidation, and the complement.

I don't want to mess with the timing cover because I don't have the specific Revit to close it after.
Some times I have spark others I don't.
The problem I have is intermittent. but at this moment is permanent.

Later I will try to connect a cable from the battery to the coil 12v, with a 10A fuse.
Do you know the AWG of the cable to use on the wiring?
And the cable is solid or stranded?

 

The original modules are no longer available. The timing sensors are. I actually have a module I'd give you for the price of shipping, but that could take weeks to get there.

Do an internet search for Dyna 2ki or Ultima 53-644. Those are the self contained ignition systems most of us use now. DO NOT order either brand as a "kit" with a new coil - they are expensive and some are (or at least were) junk. The ignition units themselves are very dependable.

 

Ok, Thanks

 

Any size wire is OK for testing 18 - 10 awg. Connect it from the battery directly to the coil and leave the other white wires there
You will HAVE to disconnect that extra wire to shut it off should it start.
As mentioned, the modules usually fail all together rather that intermittently, but if the temporary jumper makes it run, we will go from there for a fix.

There are several other versions of the self contained ignitions. Which ever one is easiest to source where you live would be preferable, I think.

Simply drill out the rivets and remove the outer cover. Under that, will be a heavier metal plate secured with screws. Both the plate and cover can then be attached with the screws. Special rivets are only necessary if you want it to look factory stock.

Best of luck.

 

If you're looking to replace the cam position sensor which is under the cover in the nose cone. Yes you have to drill the rivets out but they also have screw standoff kits to replace all that unless you want to go back to the OEM rivets which you can get easily at any hardware store. As for an alternative because it is difficult to get the OEM sensors. A company called STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS makes a Hall Effect pick up That's a direct replacement for your '89. Their model number is MC-SPA1. If you Google the company or the part number I'm sure you can find what you need. I use them in my '77 Shovelhead and also my '98 Fatboy I've never had any issues with them..
https://www.denniskirk.com/standard-...rd/2000237.sku

Check out Standard Products catalog here...
https://www.pageturnpro.com/Four-Sea.../0/mindex.html