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After some digging I believe I found the problem.
When I move the module around the bike shuts off.
Eventually I pressed the part in the back where the cables join the module and the spark came back.
With a card I made some pressure and fixed the module back.
The back is full of some silicone like material and I dont know if I can open it and fixit.
You can't.. time for a new one.. If your handy and can rewire your connections to fit just about any own module. You can get a good used one from eBay that came of a Sportster or the like..
You can't.. time for a new one.. If your handy and can rewire your connections to fit just about any own module. You can get a good used one from eBay that came of a Sportster or the like..
I admire your determination Gf1, but 98hotrodfatboy is correct. All the components are sealed with epoxy and impossible to repair satisfactorily.
And he is also correct that almost any stock module can be adapted to work just like the original, provided it is for a carburetor model. The only differences would be the connectors on the wires. The fuel injected versions have inputs for more/different sensors. I just looked on ebay and there are many new (unused) modules but the cost is egual or more than the nose cone type units.
If you decide to go with a different module, we can help you with the wiring arrangement.
You can't.. time for a new one.. If your handy and can rewire your connections to fit just about any own module. You can get a good used one from eBay that came of a Sportster or the like..
A Sportster Module will give a more aggressive advance curve [ensure the VOES Functions] and a bit Higher RPM Limit.. Not Always a Good Thing!!
But I like them!!
Originally Posted by t150vej
I admire your determination Gf1, but 98hotrodfatboy is correct. All the components are sealed with epoxy and impossible to repair satisfactorily.
And he is also correct that almost any stock module can be adapted to work just like the original, provided it is for a carburetor model. The only differences would be the connectors on the wires. The fuel injected versions have inputs for more/different sensors. I just looked on ebay and there are many new (unused) modules but the cost is egual or more than the nose cone type units.
If you decide to go with a different module, we can help you with the wiring arrangement.
If you cannot find "Plug and Play" aftermarket is the Way... lots of Choices...
After some digging I believe I found the problem.
When I move the module around the bike shuts off.
Eventually I pressed the part in the back where the cables join the module and the spark came back.
With a card I made some pressure and fixed the module back.
The back is full of some silicone like material and I don’t know if I can open it and fixit.
Like others have mentioned that module is shot and a non repairable item.
Get a Dynatek 2ki.
It will replace your cam sensor and module and is super easy to set up.
Regardless of the RPM limit on the Sportster modules that's the one I would get because they more closely match the weight of the FXR. Some what of being a no brainer. And in all honesty I really don't like complete ignition modules down in the nose cone anymore. I've had some issues with the Dyna 2Ki and now I have went back to just a Hall effect sensor in the nose cone with an external module and I'm very happy with it. If you look around on eBay you can find screamin eagle ignition modules that'll plug right in and some of them have adjustable curves. That's what I found for $100, very happy with it. Those as well are made by Dynatek so keep it away from the heat I think you'll be better off..
Now I need to fix my "pool" of gas.
I adjusted the float on the carb to the specified on the manual (16-17 mm) but something is not right.
I found the adjusting process a little misleading.
Do any of you have advice on adjusting it?
Can i test it with the carb off the bike?
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