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M&M gurus need help!!!!!

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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 09:48 AM
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Default M&M gurus need help!!!!!

I've read all the posts I could find on the air bleed screws, got some questions so I may better understand, all that I can find says 1.5 turns from lightly seated. But from the factory sealed mine were like 3 full turns out. I guess I just want clarity. I've done a lot of work to the bike to get it running decent, upgraded ECM and tune, red injectors, exhaust, intake and filter. I have a small stumble at idle and I know as bad for it as it is, I can't blip the throttle. That's where it had a slight stumble, other than that bike pulls hard.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 10:37 AM
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I wish I could help....but I’ve never messed with the factory set air bleed screws. I would imagine they would be setup like the two idle mixture screws at the base of a two barrel carburetor.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 11:37 AM
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That's what I thought, but I don't think it's quite that simple.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Jagg11
I've read all the posts I could find on the air bleed screws, got some questions so I may better understand, all that I can find says 1.5 turns from lightly seated. But from the factory sealed mine were like 3 full turns out. I guess I just want clarity. I've done a lot of work to the bike to get it running decent, upgraded ECM and tune, red injectors, exhaust, intake and filter. I have a small stumble at idle and I know as bad for it as it is, I can't blip the throttle. That's where it had a slight stumble, other than that bike pulls hard.
You have two idle screws, a hot one and a cold one. Don't worry about where they were. Means nothing because those stupid screws are known to move. Take them both completely out and put a couple of drops of blue locktite on them. They will still be adjustable, you'll just have to fight them a little. You can set the cold idle one of two ways: either with a dead cold bike and a tachometer or by using a voltmeter hooked into the TPS. There are instructions for setting the cold idle; just google "cold idle EVO" or something like that. If you go the tach route, it will be trial and error until you get the idle at 1,200 rpm. Just try and not run the motor much. You'll have to turn it off to make the adjustment too. So after you get the cold idle set, go for a 20 minute ride to get the bike good and hot, then adjust the hot idle using the tach to 1,000 rpm, no less. You'll want the hot idle screw a couple of turns in to begin with so the bike will idle somewhere.

When you get both idles set to where you want them, pull the 5 and 15 amp fuses behind the right side cover and leave them out for 30 minutes. It's a funky EVO voodoo ritual we all do. Suposedly, it's so the ECM can forget and relearn the new idle settings.

carl
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 04:30 PM
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I didn't ask about idle screws, I already know how to set tps and hot and cold idle, I'm asking about the bleeder screws.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 05:49 PM
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I looked in the 1998 and 2001 Factory Service Manual. I didn’t see anything regarding the bleeder screws in either manual.

In fact.....the 2001 manual is nearly useless regarding the EFI system. Where as the 1998 manual has quiet of few pages dedicated just for EFI.

Any rate....nothing there
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 06:07 PM
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Read my 97 as well again doesn't say much about them at all. But again service manual really doesn't do much for performance mods
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 06:32 PM
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I’ve looked at Screamn’ Eagle Instruction sheets regarding Stage 1-3.....Air Filters, hot/cold idle, ECM cartridge flash, and red injector swap.

Nothing there either.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 08:05 PM
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Where are they and what do they do?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 08:35 PM
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They are similar to mixture screws in some respect, now I've read up on all the forum has to offer, but no one ever seems to have confirmation, I've read 1.5 turns from lightly seated. I want to know why mine were 3 full turns out and love you asked what they do, if I had a better understanding it would help with the performance mods that are on the bike currently
 
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