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Hey guys, reinstalled my ez adjustable pushrods. Front cylinder seemed to go well then waited 30 mins and got rear cylinder to TDCC. Got the rear PRs to zero lash with my fingers, then did 3 full turns and 2 flats (ev27 cam with my 24 TPI) and I could still spin them with my fingers straight after the adjustment? Also when I was doing the 3 turns there seemed to be very little resistance compared to the front two PRs ... yes I did have the 5/16 wrench holding the threaded part as I made my turns on the jam nut, so it seemed that the PRs were lengthening in the process. What have I missed? What have I stuffed up?
Thanks in advance.
Oil in the lifters slowly creeps out, then the pr will spin with your finger.
yes, I understand the bleeding down thing. But mine are spinning freely with my fingers still at the time of finishing the adjustment. I was of the understanding that as I preloaded the lifter with the adjustment, the PR would be tight and not able to spin freely UNTIL the lifter had bled down... usually 10 - 20 minutes.
Thanks. Hope I'm making sense.
Soak lifters, for ever, They do not absorb.
Pump up manually, submerge lifter in oil.
With lifter standing in oil, work the plunger slowly.
When you are unable to move plunger by hand, your done.
Carry on with install.
If you adjusted the pushrods properly and you could spin the pushrod right away, it probably means the lifter was not full of oil.
Soaking a lifter in oil doesn`t guarantee it will fill with oil.
It will pump up when the engine runs.
Soak lifters, for ever, They do not absorb.
Pump up manually, submerge lifter in oil.
With lifter standing in oil, work the plunger slowly.
When you are unable to move plunger by hand, your done.
Carry on with install.
Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
If you adjusted the pushrods properly and you could spin the pushrod right away, it probably means the lifter was not full of oil.
Soaking a lifter in oil doesn`t guarantee it will fill with oil.
It will pump up when the engine runs.
ok thanks guys, that makes sense now....
So do I need to remove the lifters, re-soak in oil and manually pump them until they don't move at all?
Or leave it as set and run the bike for a few minutes, let lifters pump properly, and then readjust them after that?
Thanks again for the replies.
Also make sure your push rods are properly seated at both ends when starting the adjustment. No up/down movement what so ever.
You can pump the lifters up by removing the spark plugs and turning the engine over for about 45-60 seconds with the starter.(It's gonna seem like forever!)
Make sure you have a good battery charge!
Also make sure your push rods are properly seated at both ends when starting the adjustment. No up/down movement what so ever.
You can pump the lifters up by removing the spark plugs and turning the engine over for about 45-60 seconds with the starter.(It's gonna seem like forever!)
Make sure you have a good battery charge!
it's a fresh top end rebuild and cam and lifter upgrade.... I'm not sure cranking it over for 60 seconds without the plugs in is a good idea?
Do you suggest I take the PRs and lifters back out, and re-soak the lifters in oil and manually pump them up, then put them back in and start over?
I've watched cam and lifter swaps in person before and the guys always just soaked the lifters overnight and then whacked them in with the new cam and away we go, we'd ride the bikes home and then get them tuned?
I guess what I'm saying is - does it really matter that the lifters aren't properly full of oil when I start the motor up for the first heat cycle?
Thanks, sorry if that's a stupid question. 😬
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Pushrod adjustment done? Still spin by hand?
