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Yeah, I consider this a "Fairies were helping me out" kinda thing. They take out the starter clutch so that I will be forced to go into the primary, then find this cluster-f which would have been much worse than just a bad starter clutch.
I bought a new starter on amazon for about the same price as a starter clutch. We'll see how it works out. Worst case, I can buy a starter clutch, fix the old one and swap it out again. I'll be a softail start R&R expert by then.
probably should have been used originally, but there are no thickness specs on that and I think I'm better off with the full set and just mix and match them. They are on the way.
So, I found the root cause of this offset problem. It's actually visible in some of the above photos. Cleaning the grime off, whoa, what's that? It's a half inch spacer between the inner primary and the engine case. That explains the quarter inch short with the quarter inch spacer in there.
My spacer collection came today from Dennis Kirk. So, the question is, add another quarter inch to what I have now or get that extension thing? I'm thinking that the extension thing is just an extension with an extra half inch of spacer made into it, so cobble up from what I have and I should be OK. What y'all think?
WTF? That's a spacer for some belt drive cobbled up mess .... makes me wonder what kind of transmission it actually has, and /or if it's a fat tire bike.
Leave the inner shoulder a 1/4" longer than what you have. NOTE, you will likely need to take the same amount off the new nut on the threaded end. That nut bottoms and torques against the flywheel shaft - not the compensator. So if you don't cut it a near equal amount, it won't compress the compensator spring correctly. Follow me?
And make sure the new long nut is threaded deep enough to make it all the way to the shaft after it's cut (should be OK). You'll just have to measure and head-scratch when it comes in.
"Hardened alloy steel" and my little 6" Atlas Clausing don't get along too well. I really hate trying to turn that stuff. My cutoff tools are almost useless against it. I wish they had the actual dimensions of that thing listed. "one inch bigger..." than what? Where?
Yeah, I think the frame is set up for a fat tire. There's like a half inch spacer between the wheel sprocket and the wheel hub. I think there's a spacer between the transmission and the inner primary. Hard to get a good look at it, but there'a another block of polished aluminum there.
There's just a standard 16" tire on it now. I'd like a fat tire on it, but not today. There's over an inch of space between the belt and the tire.
.......... That nut bottoms and torques against the flywheel shaftwrong ........
I didn't look at the material, figured tool steel. The one I saw was extended on the shoulder end next to the rotor.
You have .250 plus the washer behind the stator. All you need is about .250 more. All the parts you have are correct except the 1/4" extra spacer. Doesn't matter where you space it so long as its from the crank bearing spacer out. Hardware store should have a big flat washer if you need something in-between.
Just throw some at it till it's happy then paint the inside of the nut - mock it up and check make sure you have full thread engagement with all the extra spacers. Might have to get the longer nut and just cut it. Shouldn't be too bad to chuck it up in Mr. Atlas, turn it on, cut off 1/2" with a zizz wheel and square it up good with a grinder....
Yeah, I think I'll try adding the spacers I bought and bring it out about a quarter inch until the chain is lined up properly. Teh Book says thirty thousands max difference measured close to the sprockets and off the inner primary. If I get sufficient nut engagement, I'll call it good. If it is short, I'll look for a longer nut and cut it down. And I don't think the inside edge is all that critical to be true either, as the outside shoulder is where it contacts. Bet I could probably get it close enough with my hack saw. I'm pretty good with a hack saw.
Did I ever tell you guys about the time I cut a woman's leg off left handed? From were I was at the table, left handed was the only way to get to it without moving all over the place, so that's what I did. I'm right handed and it was an air saw.
Yeah, I think I'll try adding the spacers I bought and bring it out about a quarter inch until the chain is lined up properly. Teh Book says thirty thousands max difference measured close to the sprockets and off the inner primary. If I get sufficient nut engagement, I'll call it good. If it is short, I'll look for a longer nut and cut it down. And I don't think the inside edge is all that critical to be true either, as the outside shoulder is where it contacts. Bet I could probably get it close enough with my hack saw. I'm pretty good with a hack saw.
Did I ever tell you guys about the time I cut a woman's leg off left handed? From were I was at the table, left handed was the only way to get to it without moving all over the place, so that's what I did. I'm right handed and it was an air saw.
Correct. I don't know what I was thinking earlier... obviously I wasn't thinking. The head of the nut pushes the washer against the end of the extension shaft. The spring pressure is designed in with the cams of the slider, sprocket and extension shaft.
I don't wanna hear about cutting the leg off a left handed woman....
I think she was right handed. Right legged after we were done that day. If ya smoke, that kinda thing will happen to ya. No one ever mentions it, only the "big C." Not The Big V (Vascular Disease.)
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