Compensator spacer
I mean, I did, in fact, buy the bike from an Aggie. But some SERIOUS Aggie Rigging going on here. This is some kind of aftermarket idea for an auto adjusting chain. And there's two aluminum shims under the springs that really don't look professionally made. And the springs are way too weak. Actually, it looks like this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/Automatic-P.../dp/B07BDJKP57
If I had a spare genuine HD primary tensioner laying around, I'd put it on. As it is, if I use this thing, I am going to have to make a proper shim for the bottom. The aluminum shims are straight, and the inner primary is is not straight, but slanted down towards the rear. The outer part doesn't seem to hold the shims very well. Looks like a cluster job.
I could print a new shim out of ABS plastic easy enough. A few measurements, some 3D CAD work and print it in about 3 or 4 hours, if I had to guess.
They've changed some part numbers apparently as well as shims included in with each kit.
https://www.denniskirk.com/hayden-en...prd/H59229.sku
https://www.denniskirk.com/hayden-en...=All+Products&
I've got some spare springs and "L" shims I can mail you if you need them.... don't have any spare square shims
My spacer collection came today from Dennis Kirk. So, the question is, add another quarter inch to what I have now or get that extension thing? I'm thinking that the extension thing is just an extension with an extra half inch of spacer made into it, so cobble up from what I have and I should be OK. What y'all think?
If you can show me a pic and some measurements of the L and U shims, I can make them out of scrap laying around faster and easier than shipping. Or I may go with my idea of drawing up a spacer in CAD and printing it out.
Hayden apparently changed part numbers many times over the years for the BT M6 adjuster and the only difference I know of is the shims provided in the kit, with one exception - the newer ones for the later models have an L on the inside upright whereas the others were straight, inner and outer. The models with the L are for the sloped inner primary (I assume) where the earlier adjusters that were listed to fit, just have you bend the shims to match the contour. I tried to call Hayden for better info, but reckon they don't work on Monday.
In Hess's pics, looks to me like the whole assembly is too far outboard and I can't find any decent pics of one installed on a post '94 bike. I saw a couple that looked like the the whole thing stuck out past the gasket edge but couldn't tell for sure.
All I've used them on were Dressers (short primary) and the outer upright and shim is almost perfectly at the outer edge of the inner primary. Also, the chain is centered on the shoe. For what it's worth, yes they are awesome if set up correctly. Mine has way over 100,000 miles and I just replaced the springs last year for giggles. The shoe still looked great.
The Softail inner primary changed in '94 and stayed the same thru '06. My kit was bought circa '95 and specifically says it fits all '94. The installed parts look exactly like the 2nd photo.
This photo is parts from that kit plus an original adjuster part for reference. Spring weights were measured separately. Hope all this helps....
FORGOT - depth of the shallow notch is 1/4" same as the uprights or "guide plates" and this kit M6-94 didn't come with any "H" shims.
This photo was posted by 0maha in this thread some time back: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...his-sound.html
Last edited by t150vej; Feb 8, 2021 at 01:45 PM. Reason: Forgot....
I think I have one very similar to Omaha's, but in a long, sloping primary and without anything needed to make it work in a long, sloping primary, like those L pieces. I'm going to fudge up some adapter spacers to get the bottom H plates square to the adjuster bar and I think that will do.
Specs call for 5/8" between shim pack and bottom of shoe. That's way tight on a used chain. I'd go for 11/16 to 3/4"
Have fun!
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Installed:
I think I'll add 1 more degree to the angle, raise it up about a millimeter, reduce the cutout on the right about 3mm and print it solid. This $200 printer thing is cool.
And I've seen that in '01 moco went to an under slung adjuster arm rather than the standard they used since '65, but I'm still confused how they can use the '94 inner on the '01 up and the same adjuster won't work on either one.... but TC stuff is well beyond my interest or attention span.
Hess, if you can print those in milk chocolate with almonds, I'll take 5 lbs.










