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We had a few real hot days last year, I was caught in rush hour traffic a few time so I though to have a look at look at my Ign module. Shows some signs of over heating around the edges. Is this critical? Or should I just leave it. If it was just plug and play is one thing but timing hassles ad to the fun ...
Thanks, Frank
The tan sealant is starting to melt.
You will start to have a hard start situation after a while.
Lots of cranking and no start and then it magically starts OK.
It looks like it is in the beginning.
It generally gives plenty of warning (dozens of difficult starts) .
Yours is stamped harley 32400-80a in the picture and does not appear to be expensive so it is your call.
It also looks like it was replaced at least one time since the triangle on plate has a punch mark in order to mount in the same spot and maintain timing.
If you follow the punch mark in the triangle then no timing is required but some bikes have a wire holder piece that requires a cut down wrench or removal of exhaust to access that bolt holding wire just under the cone and that would be the slow part..
Double check if it take a MCSPA1 or MCSPA3 (length of cable wires), but standard motorcycle parts MCSPA is only $50, and takes about 20 mins to swap it out.
As for timing of the sensor, just mark the old one at it V slot sides to the nose cone edges before you loosen the post screws, put the new one right back at the same marks, and call it good.
It appears you have a 2000 Dyna based on your username. If true, get the above Ignition Module (it's for 91-94 Dyna), but you can cut off the current male/female connectors and splice your old ones on - verify they are different before cutting. Getting this one give you the length of wire you need for a Dyna (~ 18") as the other one is ~ 11-12".
This is what I did with my 97 WG. I also added a few inches from the old wire with connector to the new Ignition Module. It's a pretty simple R&R - especially if you don't have a Carlini Torque Arm with attached exhaust bracket. I also used a black marker on where to line up the Ignition Module (also took pics). Mine routed underneath the engine and up by the oil neck filler and across the top of the primary which connected to behind the side cover.
Thanks all.
This pic is of my 1991 FLHTCU. I still do have an 00FDX.
One question I have is, as GOGOBECK suggested, is this condition critical? Just wondering if the opinion may be "Just leave it, it could last forever".
In the old days I remember seeing vented/louvered points covers. Thinking about finding onea those. Anyone use those anymore? Could always stop and cover it if the rains come - not often around here.
Interesting to know that one can just swap out with only marking the position. I expected that there would be production tolerances requiring re setting the Ign timing.
I am planning to place an order for the "Standard" Ign part MC_SPA1. Standard/BlueStreak is a respected Auto parts supplier from my world as an Autoparts man.
Thanks, Frank
Does the bike have a tach? If not, do you have a timing light that shows rpms?
You can check your rpms prior to swapping the pickup, then set the position of the new pickup, by rpms.
I spent 20+ years hanging out at a friends service shop. I cant count how many of these pickups we replaced because the owner saw the goo coming out through the cable opening at the bottom of the cam cover. I only remember one that was actually having a problem with the bike running that was mine and it was intermittent, only screwing up when it was very hot and when it cooled down, it would work again.
Get a replacement, toss it in your bag for insurance, replace it the next time you have the exhaust off.
The newer units have a hard cover over the electronics that wont melt.
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Ignition Module advice
I also used a black marker on where to line up the Ignition Module (also took pics). Mine routed underneath the engine and up by the oil neck filler and across the top of the primary which connected to behind the side cover.
