Can anyone specifically tell me what electronics are in that module?

And what type of issues does it specifically cause when it falters?

I've gone through the entire ignition system and it would seem the real issue is in the module and not the new ignition breaker, coil and cam sensor I've already put in.

The problem went from an occasional shut down, like the kill switch was on stopping the motor only. All other electrical works perfectly during the "stalls".

This problem resolved itself at first by simply turning the ignition off and back on and it would fire right up and run perfectly.

It progressed to more stalling, often in as quick as only a few minutes idling in the drive now.

The outcome is no spark for several minutes. Then it runs perfectly for a short period and stalls.

Last time out it required lots of cooling time before restarting and running for a short period.

I've heated the module which is on the steering crown and no where near the high heat of the motor. The result was no failure while testing.

Am I right to "assume" that the module is the last major component I need to replace?

I don't believe there is any issue with the kill switch, the anti-dive module, and I'm going to test the replacement ignition breaker for a loss of power when this happens next time I can tear it apart and test for a faulty "non OEM" breaker. The breaker is rated correctly but could still be the issue by the way it acts.

Cool off and restart went from seconds to turn the power off, hear the new breaker reset, and it fired right up. Now it stalls quickly after getting warmed up and takes a lot longer to get the spark to return.

I know it's not fuel issues, although I went through and drained the tank as a precaution before I was certain the spark was missing when it stalled. I took a lot of crud out of the tank and replaced the slighlty cracked petcock with a new aftermarket with a fresh filter. This process has given me a new issue with the float needle valve hanging up and then gas overflow when parked. I don't believe the issue is in the carb but will have to clean out the bowl and to stop this other "new" issue.

Anything you can tell me will help? I wrench my own bikes, always have for 40 years. I have a solid background in electronics, and mechanics.

I'm tired of chasing this gremlin!

 

A friend of mine has been having a similar issue with his bike. His is a custom bike with a Harley Motor. He has change the cone module twice and also the coil, but still has the same problem. His ignition switch and coil mount where your horn would be, So I was thinking heat from the motor is causing the coil to overheat and fail, or the ignition switch isn't making a good contact internally and causing it to quit. Because like you said ,let it cool down for a bit and it starts right back up, runs fine then 10-20 minutes later ,your on the side of the road. If it were my bike I would replace the coil with one I got myself, my friend has been using what the co that built the bike sends him which may have the same issues, and relocate it. And another ignition switch, again one from another source. You could try another circuit breaker ,maybe yours is getting tired. I know these problems are frustrating as hell.,,

 

Big Cahuna Your friend is not running single fire coils is he with a crane tach adapt with a tach installed ? JohnnyC I would start off by replacing the sensor assembly inside the cone Money wise they aren't real expensive You can try the heat gun trick to this sensor while the bike is running to see if it shuts down and the cooling spray to see if it acts up I would just replace it HD P/N should be 32400-83A

 

Heat and electrical, to keep from guessing and hanging parts, the test light can be your friend. Sounds like you know the location of possible failing parts, start with that relay, should be a constant positve, ignition feed, ground and power out when active, see if a source goes away, if it does you have a direction to follow a wire or relay replacement, loose/heated teminal, corrosion or bad ground
Coils go away when getting hot, should have a wire connector body at the coil, center wire is positive, should be able to remove the connector body at the time of failure and check for positive feed, signal ground, put your test light clamp on a postive and check the negatives while cranking, the light should flash. If you have positive and grounds flashing, it is your coil.
The ignition module sends grounds to the coil on engine rotation. if you don't have the flashing ground to the coil, the problem is your module.
Make sure you have power from your ignition relay before checking parts, it is easy to start pointing to hard parts as the failures, we are all guilty of it because it is "easy"

 

If you're hearing the breaker reset and then the ignition comes back up, then either you have way too much current running in that circuit or the breaker is bad. Way too much current in there could be from a coil with too low impedance, or maybe some type of short in the module, but that's kinda iffy, as the module should just short the coil to ground and open to fire. Is there anything else on that circuit? Put an ampmeter in series at the breaker and see what's flowing in there.

The Book has test procedures for the module. Go through those as well.

 

JohnnyC, I wish I could give you the answer you need, but I can't. What I can offer you is this....and I apologize for this in advance. I happen to have a brand new ignition module for cone Evo's and Shovel's for sale on ebay for 20 bucks. Its brand new, never installed. IF....and only if you determine that you need a module, I have one up for auction. I would never post my auction stuff in this forum and never have in all the years I have been a member. So if this is a violation I will delete my post, but a new module for 20 bucks might be a help to you IF you figure out you need one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...%3AMESELX%3AIT


.

 

Not sure if yours is the same as my 99 Softail Custom, but the contacts for ignition are seperate from the lights and accy. It would be easy enough to check by running a jumper from the battery, or the main breaker, to the ign. fuse. That would bypass the ign. switch. Another way you could check the ign switch, handle bar switch, and fuse, is when it quits, without turning the ign. switch off, check the voltage at the coil. It should be the same as battery voltage, or at least real close. If thats OK, I would say you probably have a bad module. At least we know for sure it is in the ign. circuit, and not fuel related. Hope this hellps.

Just read your post again. You either have a bad breaker, or there is a short some where in that circuit after the breaker. The thing that baffles me though is that "all other electrical is working OK when this happens". If the circuit breaker was opening up, it would drop every thing as all current goes through that main breaker, except for the starter itself. Have you checked the voltage on both sides of the main breaker when this happens? ARRRG! I feel your pain.

 

Many thanks all the way around for taking a moment and giving me some more things to think about. I realize everyone's time is limited so I realize some may have skimmed my explanation and just posted, either way I appreciate it but when I say I've replaced the coil and cam sensor (cone device) already with brand new parts telling me to check those seems redundant ... but hey I've checked over all I can think of time and time again.

My questions on the module is mostly what I need to hear about. What exactly does it do? I realize the pulse from the cam sensor is connected to it to trip the coil. And it advances the spark by sensing the vacuum / air module. But is this filled with prehistoric solid state devices that break down physically and then give these issues??

I've noted that the new cam sensor is a sleek looking single modern component mounted to the plate to sense the magnetic pulses when the cam timing unit passes through the sensor triggering the "timing" for the spark. The original from '86 is a blob of epoxy holding a magnet, and another glob holding the actual sensor.

Guess I may be looking for info a bit more technical too. I want to know if this component could have been the sole cause of these issues, and does it rapidly break down when beginning to fault.

And would this module be the real reason the ignition circuit breaker was tripping? Can the module cause a current draw of close to 15 amps to trip the breaker as it goes bad?

I can afford to replace it and know that each component is "fresh". But I want to know if it could be the fix for my progressively worsening situation.

What I'd like to hear is someone who did have these issues and fixed it with the module. Again the ignition module is what I'm now focusing on.

 

Just saw the above post after posting ...

It cannot be the main breaker if all other electrical on the bike is operation through the whole "no spark" situation.

Man I wish it was the ignition breaker I thought it to be. If you follow my posts I have been at it now for weeks when time permits and losing riding days fast.

I did place an auto store circuit breaker in place of the Harley OEM ignition circuit breaker, and I'm going to go back and check that for possible continued failure at that point.

Please, tell me more about the IGNITION module.

I have the manual, and should really dig into the "testing phase" which i don't relish at all. I thought I could beat the issue with operational logic, and still may if I put in a new ignition module next.

Or as I told the wife I could throw another $224 at it and know the entire ignition has been updated. But whetehr it solves the issue is what I'm trying to get more details about too.

 

If you still have 12 volts to the coil and no pulse you know where to go but it would be nice to have a test module to try a plug and play test. Maybe a member has a stock module laying around from an upgrade for testing

The module should be a processor with a circuit board but heat can break down anything electronic, diodes failing with heat, contact loose or slight corrosion on a connector pin, your shutdown problems can drive you crazy, I have to diagnose these problems daily in my field and leave some days talking to myself. The ugly thing about is is the new pickup could be faulty also and failing with heat.