I'll be checking wiring and testing the circuits asap.

I was able to dismount the ignition module using a nut driver. Turned out to be 5/16 and they spun off easily after breaking them loose.

All the wiring is run through strain reliefs / clamps and I'm in the process of striping the harnesses away from the frame to look for damage, like worn insulation with any bare wires.

I really believe it's in the ignition module and have a good offer on a Crane HI4 replacement, just waiting to hear back on the status of the Wiring Harness Kit (H-D Part Number 32408-90 ) required to adapt this to the older Evos.

The logic I'm considering is that the ignition module activates the cam sensor by supplying it with 5v and then senses the return signal to trigger the coil, in conjunction with the vacuum module. Of course all along the way are "short to ground" items like the kill switch and the anti dive.

So as soon as I can I'll test and find the real issue.

I looked at the HI4 replacement and appreciate it's ability to assist in timing the engine too after having placed the cam sensor back in and timed it by ear.

I won't be upping the RPM limit much on this old bike, don't want to rev it hard ever. The adjustments for the advance curves do interest me but a standard OEM module would be less to fiddle with ... lol.

 

the breakers get corroded which makes them weak. when i replaced the 23 year old 15 amp ign. breaker ($10) my problems went away. i'm not saying that's your problem i'm saying it worked for me.

 

I had hoped it was "THE" problem when I replaced it first. The ignition circuit breaker had been overloaded by someone who attached the accessory spot lights to it. I thought for sure that was the answer ... at first.

 

did you ever replace the main circuit breaker (30 amp) under the seat?

 

I'd pass on the Crane Hi4. For a couple years, there were a lot of "I got no spark, what's wrong" posts and the cause was almost always the Crane module. There's a reason they went bankrupt. People seem to like those Ulitma ignitions. I have a Screaming Eagle that I put on >20 years ago.

 

I'd pass on Crane also I'm a Dyna type guy

 

The crane modules that had the problems were the "nose cone" type. not the external ones that mount on the steering head. The heat in the nose cone destroyed a few that had bad potting material, not unlike a bunch of MOCO cam sensors tat ended up gluing the cover to the nose cone.

 

Was able to replace my ignition module today with a working used one, and went for a good long ride without issues ... other than my back.

Working on plumbing under the kitchen sink in my travel trailer for a couple of hours over the past two days put a bad strain on my back. Wrenching on the bike was a real, honest, pain. Thought I'd work through it. Hit the road only to discover that bumps on quick deceleration pinch my back to the extreme. By the time I got home, happy the bike ran without anymore repeat failures, I realized I couldn't lift my leg over the seat without more intense back pain. I scooted the bike back in the garage and headed inside for my meds. When I was backing up I miss-stepped and had to muscle the bike level .... it was painful!

It's been a tough couple of days with the weather ranging above 70 here, with some sunshine, a real Indian Summer right now. Having the bike off the road really bothered me so I forced myself to take that ride.

So instead of putting a working used module on it I'm going to replace it with an updated module that allows for precise adjustments and better control over the system.

Thanks for the suggestions, and all the help.

 

Hey JohnnyC; Sounds great that you found your problem. Sorry about your back though. I have a back problem also, and after wrenching on my bike for a whole day replacing the cam brg. my back hurt for another whole day. IF you are like me, a day or two of babying your back will go a long way's toward getting rid of the pain.

 

Is it in the stock mounting spot?