Originally Posted by 1997bagger

Heat and electrical, to keep from guessing and hanging parts, the test light can be your friend. Sounds like you know the location of possible failing parts, start with that relay, should be a constant positve, ignition feed, ground and power out when active, see if a source goes away, if it does you have a direction to follow a wire or relay replacement, loose/heated teminal, corrosion or bad ground
Coils go away when getting hot, should have a wire connector body at the coil, center wire is positive, should be able to remove the connector body at the time of failure and check for positive feed, signal ground, put your test light clamp on a postive and check the negatives while cranking, the light should flash. If you have positive and grounds flashing, it is your coil.
The ignition module sends grounds to the coil on engine rotation. if you don't have the flashing ground to the coil, the problem is your module.
Make sure you have power from your ignition relay before checking parts, it is easy to start pointing to hard parts as the failures, we are all guilty of it because it is "easy"

Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC

Start a new thread, this one has been dead for 9 years.

Give info on model and year, and any mods made, what type of ignition.

Note: the way you have written your post makes it damn near impossible to follow.

Take a deep breath, and settle down a bit...AND LOSE THE CAPS.

Originally Posted by JohnnyC

Can anyone specifically tell me what electronics are in that module?

And what type of issues does it specifically cause when it falters?

I've gone through the entire ignition system and it would seem the real issue is in the module and not the new ignition breaker, coil and cam sensor I've already put in.

The problem went from an occasional shut down, like the kill switch was on stopping the motor only. All other electrical works perfectly during the "stalls".

This problem resolved itself at first by simply turning the ignition off and back on and it would fire right up and run perfectly.

It progressed to more stalling, often in as quick as only a few minutes idling in the drive now.

The outcome is no spark for several minutes. Then it runs perfectly for a short period and stalls.

Last time out it required lots of cooling time before restarting and running for a short period.

I've heated the module which is on the steering crown and no where near the high heat of the motor. The result was no failure while testing.

Am I right to "assume" that the module is the last major component I need to replace?

I don't believe there is any issue with the kill switch, the anti-dive module, and I'm going to test the replacement ignition breaker for a loss of power when this happens next time I can tear it apart and test for a faulty "non OEM" breaker. The breaker is rated correctly but could still be the issue by the way it acts.

Cool off and restart went from seconds to turn the power off, hear the new breaker reset, and it fired right up. Now it stalls quickly after getting warmed up and takes a lot longer to get the spark to return.

I know it's not fuel issues, although I went through and drained the tank as a precaution before I was certain the spark was missing when it stalled. I took a lot of crud out of the tank and replaced the slighlty cracked petcock with a new aftermarket with a fresh filter. This process has given me a new issue with the float needle valve hanging up and then gas overflow when parked. I don't believe the issue is in the carb but will have to clean out the bowl and to stop this other "new" issue.

Anything you can tell me will help? I wrench my own bikes, always have for 40 years. I have a solid background in electronics, and mechanics.

I'm tired of chasing this gremlin!

Originally Posted by dsayer4music

This is a long story, so pull up a chair.

Originally Posted by dsayer4music

This is a long story, so pull up a chair.