EVO All Evo Model Discussion

EVO Ignition Module Issues and Info.

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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bagga
did you ever replace the main circuit breaker (30 amp) under the seat?
No. It didn't have issues with the entire electrical system, just the ignition. Bike had full power, no spark.


Originally Posted by Stiched
Is it in the stock mounting spot?
Are you asking if the Ignition Module on my bike is located on the steering neck?

Yes.
 

Last edited by JohnnyC; Oct 29, 2010 at 01:25 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 12:19 PM
  #32  
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Well I rode several hundred miles, on multiple rides with a perfect running engine on the used test module.

The Crane HI4 8-3100 just arrived. I'll be splicing my old module's wires onto the new module instead of buying a $50 conversion harness.

I'll be installing this module real soon and will report back on anything I notice that's different than using a stock module.

Many Thanks to John T.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 02:03 PM
  #33  
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Be careful you don't smoke the new module!!!!!!
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 06:39 PM
  #34  
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It's well diagrammed, and electronics is my forte'.

I just wish it came with a "pigtail" with the connector to make it really simple. May see if it's available other than in the "harness adapter".

Thanks for presetting it for me.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 01:00 AM
  #35  
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I spoke too soon. Seems the diagrams show the color codes of the wires coming out of the connector in the harness, but not the color code applications of the wires coming out of the module going into the connector. Those wires are obviously uniquely defined because they are different colors than the wires in the harness.

Going to have to dig around to see if somewhere there's a diagram associated with the modules wire color codes and their connecting points.

The 7 pin connector is common on later bikes. But where the issue comes in is the connecting point of those color coded wires directly out of the module . The harness re-addresses the module's wiring into the appropriate groupings, converting the color codes correctly to match the bikes connections. Without the harness you can't match it up.

It might be better to have the harness. p/n 32408-90. My local dealer had some last week when I checked on an OEM stock replacement ignition module.

What's another $50 bucks.


In case someone can look at a wiring diagram on a later model using the 7 pin plug, the wires coming out of the module going into the 7 pin connector are color coded:
Red
Black
Purple
Blue
Black/White
Red/White
Green/White

These may be the "new" colors and you can identify which are which for me.

1 connection is to the VOES.
1 connection is to the + side of the coil.
1 connection is to the - side of the coil.
1 is ground
3 are to the sensor plate and need to match correctly with
Black & White Wire
Red wire
Green wire

It would be so simple if the 7 pin connector on later bikes was the same color code as the modules wires.

Sorry I'm rambling. It's late after work and I'm barely awake.
 

Last edited by JohnnyC; Nov 4, 2010 at 01:20 AM.
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 06:01 AM
  #36  
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John found the harness, call me.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 09:26 AM
  #37  
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Harness will be on it's way soon. This will actually be the best way to be certain I DON'T smoke the module.

Thanks again John.

More next week ....
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 02:54 PM
  #38  
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i put a new harness on my 85 when the module went out. if the module ever goes out again it's a 15 minute job to change it out. unplug it and replace it.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 03:14 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by bagga
i put a new harness on my 85 when the module went out. if the module ever goes out again it's a 15 minute job to change it out. unplug it and replace it.
Good to hear from you.

It does make the most sense.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 02:05 PM
  #40  
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Hey Brother, when testing the module, should I disconnect the ground lead wire from the ignition module connected to the ground side of the coil post when cranking it over to check for ground flashing? Or do I leave it connected to the coil ground post for testing? Should I connect the negative end of the test light directly to the lead module ground wire (disconnected from the coil post) to test (ground lead wire from module) for flashing ground to the module when cranking it over? Should the positive side of the test light be connected to the positive battery post or the positive post on the coil to properly perform this test?
Just a back yard mechanic trying to fix my 98' Heritage.

Your attention to this matter is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, The Breeze...............
 
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