When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I spoke too soon. Seems the diagrams show the color codes of the wires coming out of the connector in the harness, but not the color code applications of the wires coming out of the module going into the connector. Those wires are obviously uniquely defined because they are different colors than the wires in the harness.
Going to have to dig around to see if somewhere there's a diagram associated with the modules wire color codes and their connecting points.
The 7 pin connector is common on later bikes. But where the issue comes in is the connecting point of those color coded wires directly out of the module . The harness re-addresses the module's wiring into the appropriate groupings, converting the color codes correctly to match the bikes connections. Without the harness you can't match it up.
It might be better to have the harness. p/n 32408-90. My local dealer had some last week when I checked on an OEM stock replacement ignition module.
What's another $50 bucks.
In case someone can look at a wiring diagram on a later model using the 7 pin plug, the wires coming out of the module going into the 7 pin connector are color coded:
Red
Black
Purple
Blue
Black/White
Red/White
Green/White
These may be the "new" colors and you can identify which are which for me.
1 connection is to the VOES.
1 connection is to the + side of the coil.
1 connection is to the - side of the coil.
1 is ground
3 are to the sensor plate and need to match correctly with
Black & White Wire
Red wire
Green wire
It would be so simple if the 7 pin connector on later bikes was the same color code as the modules wires.
Sorry I'm rambling. It's late after work and I'm barely awake.
i put a new harness on my 85 when the module went out. if the module ever goes out again it's a 15 minute job to change it out. unplug it and replace it.
i put a new harness on my 85 when the module went out. if the module ever goes out again it's a 15 minute job to change it out. unplug it and replace it.
Hey Brother, when testing the module, should I disconnect the ground lead wire from the ignition module connected to the ground side of the coil post when cranking it over to check for ground flashing? Or do I leave it connected to the coil ground post for testing? Should I connect the negative end of the test light directly to the lead module ground wire (disconnected from the coil post) to test (ground lead wire from module) for flashing ground to the module when cranking it over? Should the positive side of the test light be connected to the positive battery post or the positive post on the coil to properly perform this test?
Just a back yard mechanic trying to fix my 98' Heritage.
Your attention to this matter is greatly appreciated.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.