EVO Ignition Module Issues and Info.
About all I can tell you about modules, is that I think they can go bad in many different ways. The one on my 84 Iron Head Sportster would not start. Let off the starter button, and hit it again and it may start or not. When it was in that mode, I hooked up my timing light, and sure enough, no spark. Once it was running it was fine. It was just start up that was intermittent. It could have a shorted transistor that would cause the breaker to trip, but then I do not think it would run at all. Most solid state stuff either works, or it doesn't. But there are exceptions. The regulator on my Sporty had a broken land on the circuit board, and I could press on the soft back and make it work. I finally gave in on my Sportster and changed it over to points and condenser. That way I could fix it. Besides; at the time it was a lot cheaper than the module.
did you replace the main breaker under the seat (30 amp)and the ignition breaker under the speedo/ tach (15 amp)? if you didn't, i would replace both first before the ign. module. breakers are $10 new module is $224. ground strap under the motor attached to the inner primary needs to be tight. check every ign. circuit connection.
Last edited by bagga; Oct 20, 2010 at 04:18 PM.
My wife's '89 custom softail started gradually running ruff at highway speeds. It would cough and sputter, then catch and run fine. However, it finally got to where it would shut off completely at highway speeds. The last time it did it, I let it sit for a few minutes, then we cranked it and limped home. I installed new plugs, then a new coil. Still had the same problem. Described the symptoms to one of the mechanics at the local Harley dealer and he said "it's the ignition module." He sold me a new one and told me how to wire it. Installed it that night at it's run great ever since. If you have a service manual, there should be a way to test it.
Thank you guys for some more info!
I'm hoping to crack open the bike again and do some more testing starting with the ignition circuit breaker.
Also going to double check the new coil sensor just in case it is a bum part. I felt it was the cam sensor going into this because of the heat related stalls.
The reports of similar issues and the replacement of the ignition module sounds like the real answer in this mess.
I fired her up in the garage yesterday and took care of some other things. She stalled in all of 6 or 7 minutes just idling perfectly in the drive. Wouldn't restart until quite a while later, as this issue has gone from momentary occasional, to where I'm at now.
I'm headed to the ignition breaker under the speedo and will test both voltage supply before and after stall but I also want to check the current draw there too.
Any one know how to easily unbolt the ignition module from the bike. Mine is slightly under the fairing and all I can feel is the bolt head is flat and seated , like stamp pressed, into the steering frame. Module side can't see a nut from my view and can't "sense" any nuts by touching the studs that hold it on.
I don't want to have to pull the fairing just to see what I need to take the module off it's two bolt mount!
I'm hoping to crack open the bike again and do some more testing starting with the ignition circuit breaker.
Also going to double check the new coil sensor just in case it is a bum part. I felt it was the cam sensor going into this because of the heat related stalls.
The reports of similar issues and the replacement of the ignition module sounds like the real answer in this mess.
I fired her up in the garage yesterday and took care of some other things. She stalled in all of 6 or 7 minutes just idling perfectly in the drive. Wouldn't restart until quite a while later, as this issue has gone from momentary occasional, to where I'm at now.
I'm headed to the ignition breaker under the speedo and will test both voltage supply before and after stall but I also want to check the current draw there too.
Any one know how to easily unbolt the ignition module from the bike. Mine is slightly under the fairing and all I can feel is the bolt head is flat and seated , like stamp pressed, into the steering frame. Module side can't see a nut from my view and can't "sense" any nuts by touching the studs that hold it on.
I don't want to have to pull the fairing just to see what I need to take the module off it's two bolt mount!
My Bike was the featured model for this magazine article. I have a copy of this with my records.

The original owner wanted white, added 6 more bullet brake lights and some real bright forward lights ... He wanted to be seen, and not killed. Seems he wasn't seen, and was almost killed on his other bike that was all black and chrome.
When shopping many friends told me I'd be "shunned" by real bikers for having this paint job. Truth be told ... lots of comments, some complimentary ... LOL
It was competing with the Gold Wing as far as a touring design.
I just wish it was a little more pristine when I got it.

The original owner wanted white, added 6 more bullet brake lights and some real bright forward lights ... He wanted to be seen, and not killed. Seems he wasn't seen, and was almost killed on his other bike that was all black and chrome.
When shopping many friends told me I'd be "shunned" by real bikers for having this paint job. Truth be told ... lots of comments, some complimentary ... LOL
It was competing with the Gold Wing as far as a touring design.
I just wish it was a little more pristine when I got it.
Any one know how to easily unbolt the ignition module from the bike. Mine is slightly under the fairing and all I can feel is the bolt head is flat and seated , like stamp pressed, into the steering frame. Module side can't see a nut from my view and can't "sense" any nuts by touching the studs that hold it on.
I don't want to have to pull the fairing just to see what I need to take the module off it's two bolt mount!
I don't want to have to pull the fairing just to see what I need to take the module off it's two bolt mount!
I would be willing to bet your problem is in the wiring going from the breaker... to the kill switch...back to the ignition. Pretty simple to bypass to test







