I don't think I'm getting in that range but honestly have no idea of where I'm at when it happens. I've considered an aftermarket tac but don't really want to go that route.

My current game plan...
Fender is off right now for taillight replacement. It's actually cracked on both sides. Prep and paint was done at my friends shop. My brother in law works there and was over this weekend so he looked at the fender. They want to add some type of matting and reinforcement to see if it will stop the spread. I've fully explained the vibration issue but they still want to try it. Supposedly he should only need it for a week. Repaint this winter if that works.

Once I have the fender back on I'll take it to an Indy. So far I've done a fair amount of work on this bike myself and would like to continue down that path. I'm not sure how this will shake out but I'd like to see if I can get them to ride & diagnose (for a fee of course) and point me in the right direction.

 

Sometimes the EVO can suffer from vibration problems caused by:

1. A broken motor mount bolt.
2. A loose motor mount bolt.
3. A compensating sprocket with a faulty spring or the big center nut worked itself loose.
4. A loose tranny mount.
5. A cracked frame.
6. Tyres badly worn.

# 1, 2 and 6 are easy to check.
Just not only look at bolts, but really check if one of them is loose.

As your bike is stroked you will probably need to check all bolts on your bike more often compared to a standard bike.

(My '69 Norton Comando 750 with high comp pistons and a 4S cam used to spread parts all over the roads. Once I almost lost the cylinders...).

 

I should have thought to check mounts and bolts. Will have a look this evening hopefully. I been researching the compensating sprocket. Aside from a loose center nut is there any way to determine if it's functioning properly without removing or just replacing?

 

If the spring pack is broke you will usually get a intermittent clunk sound on start up and or shutdown.

Will also show up if lugging the engine at times. Kinda hard to describe

WP

 

No clunks or noise from the primary. Engine mount bolts were tight. Pulled the primary cover. Fluid was a little low. Small amount of shavings on the plug but the fluid looked ok. Compensating sprocket nut is finger tight. I didn't try to torque it. Not 100% clear on how to lock the sprocket. Nothing feels loose. The chain tensioner is spring loaded. I assume this is an auto tensioner?

My buddy owns the body shop that did the paint and prep. He believes the fender needs to be reinforced. There is no rolled edge on the bottom portion and without the factory chrome trim/light there is nothing stopping the vibration from causing damaging. He going to go ahead and repair and repaint.

I stopped by an Indy today. Have an appointment to drop it off next week. Think I'll fill the primary, mount the old fender, and drop it off.

 

compared to a original Softail set-up of the same years as yours:





It could be the photos or my old eyes but your primary chain looks as if it runs with a different and sharper angle on the lower part of the stretch.

Do not pay to much attention though, cause I can not figure out how that could even be possible.

 

You have a Hayden auto adjuster imo makes for smoother shifting and not worrying about adjusting.Looks like ur primary chain may be a little stretched judging by the stack of spacers.I know mine only uses 2 when set up.Maybe time for a new chain?

 

You're gonna need a good kidney belt, if that's cracking sheet metal.

 

That's likely your problem. Most use a steel bar between the chain sprockets to lock them for torquing and the nut should have Loctite 262. Correct torque for that year is 100 ft/lb

I agree with 86glider. With that amount of shims, your primary chain is worn out. You can see the chain is almost hitting the top cross bar. They'll stretch forever, but when badly worn, they also have lateral flex and all that adds up to bad vibes. The compensating sprocket nut being loose is the biggest issue.

Have the shop replace the primary chain and they'll get everything torqued during the process. Be sure to tell them 1/2" - 5/8" between top shim and bottom of shoe. Not every shop is familiar with the Hayden adjuster.

 

This forum is great! Learn some good things every time from the members with a vast knowledge. 👍🏻

Did not know the chain could stretch that much.