Oil pump or drive?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 2,134
From: W. Texas
Have heard of it working but certainly not the best.
It's understandable why ya tried it though.
When I have been in a situation like that a very light coat of spray adhesive has done well. Just on one side.
Now on this oil pump I'd have to be there to make a decision on weather to use adhesive or Not.
Great job so far Sir
WP
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 189
Likes: 39
From: Guildford, UK
I went with the standard Harley one.
The S&S metal one's would generally be coming over from USA, which would have meant a 2-3 week delay.
Any more trouble and I'll go for a metal one, or even a complete aftermarket oil pump.
The S&S metal one's would generally be coming over from USA, which would have meant a 2-3 week delay.
Any more trouble and I'll go for a metal one, or even a complete aftermarket oil pump.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,421
Likes: 2,621
From: NC USA
They changed the bolt pattern of the lower 2 screws ever so slightly in '92, very easy to get the gaskets mixed up. Use new gaskets, OEM if possible, thickness of the material is critical.
After the pump cover is off, rotate engine so the key way is up and do not allow the shaft to drift inward more than a tiny bit. If you do, the inner key can disengage from the drive gear and fall out and/or get rotated so the key disengages the gear which may require the cam cover removal.
No grease or adhesive. Place all 6 screws into the pump body to align the inner gasket, then lightly snug the top 2 to hold the body and inner gasket in place. Remove the lower 4 and continue assembly. With it all in place, snug the lower 4 then tighten all 6 equally and alternately. Don't over tighten.
R&R of the pump is tedious but very doable. A pump cover adds a bit of frustration.
After the pump cover is off, rotate engine so the key way is up and do not allow the shaft to drift inward more than a tiny bit. If you do, the inner key can disengage from the drive gear and fall out and/or get rotated so the key disengages the gear which may require the cam cover removal.
No grease or adhesive. Place all 6 screws into the pump body to align the inner gasket, then lightly snug the top 2 to hold the body and inner gasket in place. Remove the lower 4 and continue assembly. With it all in place, snug the lower 4 then tighten all 6 equally and alternately. Don't over tighten.
R&R of the pump is tedious but very doable. A pump cover adds a bit of frustration.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,116
Likes: 7,638
From: Poolville
I'm pretty sure that your whole problem was created by the plastic breather gear becoming out of round from heat and stop spinning.. This would not happen with a steel breather gear.. A lot of people have negative things to say about steel breather but that's one thing it will not do.. Also it won't allow aluminum to get embedded in it and tear up the bore of the breather which would require total case disassembly and taking it to a shop and have it bored oversized, that's even if it's even savable.. You got very lucky with what happened.. Usually the damage is more extensive than what you had..
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,421
Likes: 2,621
From: NC USA
The reason is so the ears don't interfere with the outer cover. (or maybe a cruel joke to anyone trying to change one) 
I've been running the "ear" type on the outer end of the shaft on mine for 20+ years, no issues. Full disclosure - it's a pre '92 pump, though I doubt that indention depth has changed.
With the back end of a slide caliper, measure from the gear face to the outer edge of the lock ring. Then compare that to the depth of the indention from the face of the cover. I think you'll find there's no chance of interference. Otherwise, you can reuse the wire type if it's not damaged or lost. Yeah, that's a big if... part# 26348-36
Don't worry about your OEM breather gear either. Though mine lost 3 teeth years ago, been running a plastic gear ever since (130,000+ miles)
I've been running the "ear" type on the outer end of the shaft on mine for 20+ years, no issues. Full disclosure - it's a pre '92 pump, though I doubt that indention depth has changed.
With the back end of a slide caliper, measure from the gear face to the outer edge of the lock ring. Then compare that to the depth of the indention from the face of the cover. I think you'll find there's no chance of interference. Otherwise, you can reuse the wire type if it's not damaged or lost. Yeah, that's a big if... part# 26348-36
Don't worry about your OEM breather gear either. Though mine lost 3 teeth years ago, been running a plastic gear ever since (130,000+ miles)
Last edited by t150vej; May 29, 2022 at 09:02 AM. Reason: 92 pump
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 189
Likes: 39
From: Guildford, UK
Back together again.
Test run of 20miles and no leaks yet............longer run tomorrow.
Thanks again guys.
Test run of 20miles and no leaks yet............longer run tomorrow.
Thanks again guys.
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