Oil pump or drive?
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 189
Likes: 39
From: Guildford, UK
Oil pump or drive?
Any suggestions as to possible causes of my problem.....I have my own thoughts as you can see from the title.
1998 FLSTS all standard.
I noticed a ticking noise whilst riding along. Suspected it sounded like hydraulic tappets?
The noticed oil light on.....immediately shut down engine.
Having travelled about 10 miles in total, i felt the oil tank and it was cold.
Plenty of oil in the tank.
I had to be recovered 200 miles which took 12 hours.
1998 FLSTS all standard.
I noticed a ticking noise whilst riding along. Suspected it sounded like hydraulic tappets?
The noticed oil light on.....immediately shut down engine.
Having travelled about 10 miles in total, i felt the oil tank and it was cold.
Plenty of oil in the tank.
I had to be recovered 200 miles which took 12 hours.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,027
Likes: 7,549
From: Poolville
Lets start with removing the rocker box's to pull the pushrods and cam chest cover.. Then post up a pic.. This might be a severe approach but I'm only basing it on what you said..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; May 16, 2022 at 06:52 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,027
Likes: 7,549
From: Poolville
I'm gonna go back one step and say pull the pump, check the gyrators and housing and go from there...
One more thing how many miles and do you mean it's all stock ("all standard") as in can chest was never opened and the cam bearing was never replaced?
One more thing how many miles and do you mean it's all stock ("all standard") as in can chest was never opened and the cam bearing was never replaced?
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; May 17, 2022 at 06:19 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 189
Likes: 39
From: Guildford, UK
I say standard, but that is as far as I know.....but I have only owned this softail for about a year, so in reality just ignore that comment of mine. It still has the standard carb and untill just before I got it, the standard exhaust.
It has only done just over 16,500 miles....verified by the annual MOT test.
I have taken a few bits off, including the exhaust, to get better access.
The photo below shows where I've got to.
It says in the manual to take the rocker boxes off before going into the timing nose cone......is that right, or can I go straight for the pump?
I also took the screen out and it was clean and it was full of oil.
Last edited by splittie65; May 17, 2022 at 08:09 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,032
Likes: 12,561
From: South Carolina
Trending Topics
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,378
Likes: 2,574
From: NC USA
Just go for the pump, don't worry with the cam cover removal for now. You may end up in there, but the oil pump can be R&R'ed by itself.
Drain the tank first. Get the breather filter out of the way, looks like an add on cover for the pump so whatever that takes. The oil pump cover comes off after removing the hoses and 4 bolts. If there is a problem with the feed side of the pump, you'll see it. If not, plan on the cam cover coming off.
To finish removing the pump if you choose:
There is a tiny lock ring on the shaft of the drive gear, get that off. At that point and if possible, rotate the engine so the slot for the woodruff key is up. Do not push or allow the shaft to move forward into the engine more than 1/8"
Pull the 2 feed gears and key. Remove 2 top bolts from the pump housing and slide it off. Return gears will slide off. That's all there is to it.
Drain the tank first. Get the breather filter out of the way, looks like an add on cover for the pump so whatever that takes. The oil pump cover comes off after removing the hoses and 4 bolts. If there is a problem with the feed side of the pump, you'll see it. If not, plan on the cam cover coming off.
To finish removing the pump if you choose:
There is a tiny lock ring on the shaft of the drive gear, get that off. At that point and if possible, rotate the engine so the slot for the woodruff key is up. Do not push or allow the shaft to move forward into the engine more than 1/8"
Pull the 2 feed gears and key. Remove 2 top bolts from the pump housing and slide it off. Return gears will slide off. That's all there is to it.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,378
Likes: 2,574
From: NC USA
You may be able to tell something (no guarantee) after pulling the pump cover and idler gear, then see if you can turn the drive gear of the pump. It shouldn't turn. If it does, the issue is definitely on the other end, inside the cam chest. But again, no guarantee because whatever may be wrong inside can foul things enough that turning the shaft is difficult or imposible.
Bottom line, these pumps aren't bullet proof but are very reliable provided debris isn't introduced into the gears causing a sheared key and/or broken gear. Most often that happens on the return side, so they still pump but don't return the oil.