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Is it worth me checking the oil pressure switch? Is it possible?
The noise I heard may have been a coincidence? And I've checked the distance I'd travelled as 7.2 miles, maybe not far enough to heat the oil in the oil tank?
Is it worth me checking the oil pressure switch? Is it possible?
The noise I heard may have been a coincidence? And I've checked the distance I'd travelled as 7.2 miles, maybe not far enough to heat the oil in the oil tank?
I almost commented on the "cold oil tank" earlier. Yeah, it won't heat or circulate enough in that distance to feel any heat in the tank or even move a thermometer for that matter.
Nothing visibly wrong in the photo. Slide the right gear out and try to turn the left (drive) gear. You can pry on it with a some sort of plastic. It will move ever so slightly but should otherwise be solid in either direction. If possible, turn the engine and re-check. Checking a sender requires a pump and fittings. They "open" at 5psi and are grounded with no pressure.
Simple but messy method - put the pump cover back on with the old gasket, attach feed line, put in a small amount (quart or less) of the old oil. Remove the sender and you could put a hose with a 1/8"npt fitting in its place and route that to a container. Remove the plugs, turn the engine over with the starter. If working, it'll push oil out the sender port easily at starter speed. If it does, replace the sender and cover gasket, give it a try.
I sincerely we all have not jumped the gun and caused you unnecessary work.
I suppose that oil pressure idiot light senders do go bad, but it's pretty rare, and combined with the lifter noise, I'd be looking at that pump and lifters too. Would have been a good idea to see if the oil was returning before pulling it down.
I almost commented on the "cold oil tank" earlier. Yeah, it won't heat or circulate enough in that distance to feel any heat in the tank or even move a thermometer for that matter.
Nothing visibly wrong in the photo. Slide the right gear out and try to turn the left (drive) gear. You can pry on it with a some sort of plastic. It will move ever so slightly but should otherwise be solid in either direction. If possible, turn the engine and re-check. Checking a sender requires a pump and fittings. They "open" at 5psi and are grounded with no pressure.
I took the right gear out and tested the other cog. just a very slight movement in both directions.
I replaced the oil pressure sensor. (I can't test the old one as the insulation broke as I tried to undo the power cable)
I decided to put it back together and try again.
I started the engine for about a minute......twice.
The oil light remains on.
I can't see any oil returning to the tank, but I don't know how easy it is to see.
Th engine was running sweet with no abnormal noises....even from the hydraulic lifters.
As the oil from the pump was obviously drained and also the pipes to the oil filter, does it take time to prime?
It can be difficult to "see" the oil returning. They don't run a steady stream and with it on the side stand and lines empty, it would take some time for it to start returning and be visible. With the oil tank above the pump, they generally gravity feed well enough to prime the pump. There's no pressure on the return side.
Grabbing at straws... remove the oil sender wire, sw/on, does the light go off?
Remove the plug and spring for the tappet screen. With hot oil, it'll slowly ooze out after a few seconds. Cold oil, it'd take a few minutes. It'll make a mess but won't shoot to the roof - turn the starter a few seconds, should immediately push oil out of there. (They make an adapter for mechanical oil gauge, that is where they connect)
With a sheared key and/or broken pinion drive gear, they can turn enough to give a bit of flow but not enough to build pressure. That's why the suggestions of going into the cam cover. With those low miles, that type failure is very rare though.
You can always attach a 2-ft piece of 3/8 fuel line to the oil return line that comes off of the oil filter that goes back up to the tank. The return line is right below the oil pump.. start the bike and hold the fuel line at the tank fill opening to confirm return.. Make sure you plug the rubber return line going to the tank..
But as t150 suggested an oil gauge would be a good idea..
pull the pulg on the top, the tappet screen plug and check to see if its clear.
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Thanks for that thought, but I already checked that. After the first time of restarting it , there was no oil here either. i tried putting some oil in there for the second starting but that made no difference.
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