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I built this bike back in 2001 and it's been running strong since then.. It's been through 3 sets of fenders, 2 set of handlebars, probably 6-7 speedos, few taillights, and tachs a couple belts and the usual maintenance items. It's a higher compression SnS motor 10.8 to 1 with SnS 640 cams.. Made 124/120 in 4th gear back in 2003
Recently I was getting a valve tick when hot and bike hasn't been itself. It's got over 48000 miles on the motor. I tried new lifters and even some homemade rocker lockers. Didn't work.. On a whim I checked the crank runout on the left side and it was indicating about 0.012" Crank time... While I had to assemble this motor from a kit (non crate SnS motor), this is my first time doing an EVO. Have done a few TCs down to the cases and did shovels and pans almost 50 years ago.
Head off and they don't look to bad. Motor will get a valve job and oversized pistons. The cylinders are way out of round. Mostly my fault running too much timing and too much fuel..
The crank was tight in the cases. Turns out the real problem and cause for the runout was that the pinion nut popped loose. I was tuning the crank backwards while checking and the nut wound out against the cam case.. I remove the cover and the crank was less than 0.002" When I assembled the motor, I had used hylomar to seal the cases and it really should have been something better. They always weeped a little so I planned on splitting them to reseal.. I found the left side bearing worn funny but the pintion side of the cranks is still good. I suspect that I can get the case bearing lapped true and over sized roller.. The indicator used here is metric so 0.05mm is about 0.002"
48K on a 113" is good run and that one's clean, early 2k years we were seeing about 25k and needing the love. Yours look a lot better than a most low milers I tore down, almost all had bad piston scuffing & slap.
For what it's worth, those heads respond very well to a good port clean up and clay flow job. How's the side play on that front rod ? Got any twist when you pull it straight up and try ?
48K on a 113" is good run and that one's clean, early 2k years we were seeing about 25k and needing the love. Yours look a lot better than a most low milers I tore down, almost all had bad piston scuffing & slap.
For what it's worth, those heads respond very well to a good port clean up and clay flow job. How's the side play on that front rod ? Got any twist when you pull it straight up and try ?
The OP said it was a S&S 113, i thought it was the MOCO early 2k years Evos that had some issues, not the S&S? Just asking
48K on a 113" is good run and that one's clean, early 2k years we were seeing about 25k and needing the love. Yours look a lot better than a most low milers I tore down, almost all had bad piston scuffing & slap.
For what it's worth, those heads respond very well to a good port clean up and clay flow job. How's the side play on that front rod ? Got any twist when you pull it straight up and try ?
They were good but the cylinders have seen some heat.. Motor ran the evil synthetic.. M1 15w-50... Cylinders are pretty bad, Front is about 0.008" out of round. Almost all the wear is on the thrust side of the bore.. That tells me, too much timing and too much fuel.. It was that way for about the first 10000 miles. It has a Tjet and that made it run rich on the mid until I figured out how to tune the crossover. Also the suggested timing was way too high.. SnS said to use 30 degrees but the motor ran much better at 27..
One thing about these motors is that they really don't have enough fins.. If you look at a twincam, they have way more. I suspect one this motor lasted is due to to the fact that it's in a light bike where a lot of air can flow around the motor and not a lot of weight to pull..
The front rod is tight, maybe 1/16" side to side.. Tighter than I was expecting. Also both rods rotate freely. Motor has the upgraded supreme rods if that makes any difference. It was what SnS said was their drag race motor, higher compression heads (10.8 vs 10.2 IIRC), originally the 631 cam and the option of either a D or G carb,, You had to put it together. I plan on checking the flow but probably won't do much more than a valve job. This motor made 124/120 and with a belt drive primary (no comp), it vibrates pretty good when you roll the throttle on.. In a softail, if you run the bike hard a lot, parts start falling off.
I've got a buddy that has a mid 90s Electra glide with the SnS crate motor. His just died with about 38000 miles on it.. He had bad runout and a scuffed piston..
Hi Max Head flow, just looking at your lifting arrangement off your head breather bolt holes. As i often work alone on my bike/motor and have just finished a 113 build to swap into my 86 FXWG and have been wondering can i get the motors in and out by myself. Seems to me its a fair bit of weight hang of those bolts? just asking as i have never pulled the motor before.
Last edited by Ozzie John; Nov 7, 2022 at 04:55 PM.
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113 SnS rebuild..
