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Finished up installing my modded swingarm with the spherical bearing kit on the old 88 FLHS. Is there any reason why I can't do an alignment of the engine/trans and wheels while the bike is still on the lift? So much easier to see everything and work on the bike this way. Got the bike squared up and level on the lift. Any input greatly appreciated, Thanks.
Last edited by bentparts; Feb 7, 2023 at 07:06 PM.
Reason: grammer
What kind of lift is the bike on? If a frame lift make sure the lift is not contacting the motor or transmission, it will move them and screw up your alignment.
I don't have a lift, so I did mine on the floor. I use a single scissors jack like this, but without those add on gubbins:
I just lift enough to get the frame off the jiffy stand, then square it up (using a level) with shims on the jack. Can't see a reason you couldn't do the same on a lift. The bike won't know the difference.
This would be a good time to adjust the top mount.
use a magnetic angle finder, <10 bucks at Harbor Freight.
put on front brake rotor and adjust your tie downs until it reads 90 degrees.
Put angle finder on rear rotor then adjust top mount to until it reads 90 degrees.
I've never had to adjust the front adjuster. But I do adjust the rear axle to swing arm pivot point using a brazing rod bent in an "L" shape with a small Oring on it.
Center the short end of the rod with the swing arm pivot bolt. Slide the oring along the long end of the rod until its in the center of the axle. Now go to the other side and verify it's the same distance center to center.
If not adjust axle adjusters until they are. Once finished don't forget to check/adjust the belt tension. If you need to adjust belt tension turn the axle adjusters an equal number of turns.
This would be a good time to adjust the top mount.
use a magnetic angle finder, <10 bucks at Harbor Freight.
put on front brake rotor and adjust your tie downs until it reads 90 degrees.
Put angle finder on rear rotor then adjust top mount to until it reads 90 degrees.
Or get two of the angle finders and eliminate the front to back chit.
It's more acurate to align it loaded, ie as the bike is meant to be riden. Unsprung suspensions have different geometries than (((( loaded )))) suspensions.
yea it took me a while to get my suspension to stop drinking as well
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'm gonna do it on the table lift, was able to get the bike level and square pretty easy with a couple of inexpensive laser levels, Thanks Amazon for overnight delivery. According to the Harley FSM you have to jack the bike up by the frame, under the engine just enough to get the rear wheel slightly off the table ( or floor ) to allow free movement of the rear wheel, swingarm and engine with the bike suspension NOT compressed. Still gonna leave a couple of tie downs on the front with just enough pressure to keep the bike from falling.