Replacement Voltage Regulator
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,121
Likes: 300
From: New Mexico-No, you don't need a passport.
Replacement Voltage Regulator
95 Electra Glide.
I lost my voltage regulator last weekend.
It was over charging and it ate the battery.
I got towed to a town where I could get a new battery.
The tow was $600.
I'm glad I paid the extra few bucks for towing insurance.
I replaced the battery.
I couldn't get a new regulator.
I disconnected the headlight and the voltage regulator and drove it 120 miles home on just the battery.
This will be the 4th regulator I have replaced since I bought the bike 15 years ago.
Is there a better regulator than the stock one available?
I lost my voltage regulator last weekend.
It was over charging and it ate the battery.
I got towed to a town where I could get a new battery.
The tow was $600.
I'm glad I paid the extra few bucks for towing insurance.
I replaced the battery.
I couldn't get a new regulator.
I disconnected the headlight and the voltage regulator and drove it 120 miles home on just the battery.
This will be the 4th regulator I have replaced since I bought the bike 15 years ago.
Is there a better regulator than the stock one available?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,197
From: Oxford, Nc
After checking the stator output and confirming it's acting properly, I'd go with a Cycle Electric unit (or the entire system if necessary.)
Pricey but worth it IMO.
There's certainly nothing special about the OEM charging systems (low bidder wins.)
Pricey but worth it IMO.
There's certainly nothing special about the OEM charging systems (low bidder wins.)
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,421
Likes: 2,621
From: NC USA
If you don't have a good ground on the regulator it doesn't matter what brand you use, it'll give up sooner than it should. There's a procedure for checking that - does not involve checking ohms. I can describe how, if you want.
Need to thoroughly check the stator also.
Post# 2 - https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...85-stator.html
Or - https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo/8...ng-system.html
Need to thoroughly check the stator also.
Post# 2 - https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...85-stator.html
Or - https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo/8...ng-system.html
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 1,434
Likes: 800
From: Colorado
Ditto with above, since problem could be bad grounding for the regulator.
But also would upgrade to a three phase system from Cycle Electric since you need to get back into the system.
The two phase systems on the older harley's don't put out much voltage at lower RPM's and if you have added more electrical demand to the system, the stock system is going to be fighting to recharge the battery back up from lower rpms, once you do get enough RPMs to bring the charging voltage back up.
With the three phase system (stator and regulator) not only do you get more over all charging amperage, but higher voltage at lower rpms to keep the battery fully charged there too. Also, on the Cycle Electric voltage regulator, go moffitt voltage regulator, isntead of shunt regulator, since it produces less heat to burn it up in the first place.
But also would upgrade to a three phase system from Cycle Electric since you need to get back into the system.
The two phase systems on the older harley's don't put out much voltage at lower RPM's and if you have added more electrical demand to the system, the stock system is going to be fighting to recharge the battery back up from lower rpms, once you do get enough RPMs to bring the charging voltage back up.
With the three phase system (stator and regulator) not only do you get more over all charging amperage, but higher voltage at lower rpms to keep the battery fully charged there too. Also, on the Cycle Electric voltage regulator, go moffitt voltage regulator, isntead of shunt regulator, since it produces less heat to burn it up in the first place.
Last edited by Dano523; May 30, 2023 at 07:25 PM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,727
Likes: 3,071
From: Brighton, MI
In addition to what has already been mentioned, comp-u-fire make a nice regulator as well. Been running the same one for years. Voltage at 1000 rpm's has always been in the 14.2 to 14.5 range. Made in USA same as the cycle electric.
https://pertronixbrands.com/products...-oem-74519-88a
https://pertronixbrands.com/products...-oem-74519-88a
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Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,121
Likes: 300
From: New Mexico-No, you don't need a passport.
If you don't have a good ground on the regulator it doesn't matter what brand you use, it'll give up sooner than it should. There's a procedure for checking that - does not involve checking ohms. I can describe how, if you want.
Need to thoroughly check the stator also.
Post# 2 - https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...85-stator.html
Or - https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo/8...ng-system.html
Need to thoroughly check the stator also.
Post# 2 - https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...85-stator.html
Or - https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo/8...ng-system.html
Please describe the ground test for me.
Thank you.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,421
Likes: 2,621
From: NC USA
Testing for ground quality
Set meter on a low DC Volt setting (not mV) or simply to DC V if it's digital auto-ranging. Don't start engine, but turn on all lights and accessories, tie the front brake lever back so the brake light is on if possible. Basically, put as much load on the electric system as you can.
Touch or connect the (+) lead to the negative battery post.
Touch the ( - ) lead to the engine and look at the reading.
Touch a bare spot on frame or a bolt and look at the reading.
The engine will possibly be less than the frame reading, but no point of test (from one end of the bike to the other) should ever be over .2 volt but less than .02 is optimum.
Remember, just because an attaching bolt or nut checks good, doesn't mean what it's attached to is getting the same continuity. So be sure to find or scratch a tiny bare spot on the regulator itself.
Set meter on a low DC Volt setting (not mV) or simply to DC V if it's digital auto-ranging. Don't start engine, but turn on all lights and accessories, tie the front brake lever back so the brake light is on if possible. Basically, put as much load on the electric system as you can.
Touch or connect the (+) lead to the negative battery post.
Touch the ( - ) lead to the engine and look at the reading.
Touch a bare spot on frame or a bolt and look at the reading.
The engine will possibly be less than the frame reading, but no point of test (from one end of the bike to the other) should ever be over .2 volt but less than .02 is optimum.
Remember, just because an attaching bolt or nut checks good, doesn't mean what it's attached to is getting the same continuity. So be sure to find or scratch a tiny bare spot on the regulator itself.
