i went to start my trike. seems to be plenty power going to the starter, could be wrong but plenty of clicking noise at the starter. shows 13.4v but drops to 11.2 when trying to start battery is 6mths old . what voltage should i have ? could battery be a dud ?thanks all

 

Pull the battery to fully charge it, and have it load tested.

If still good, then need year of bike, since could just be that the starter solenoid contacts and ring are worn/flash pitted to hell, or a problem in the electrical system with not enough power to the solenoid in the first place when the motor is energized.

Hence when you press the starter button, 12 volts is sent to the starter solenoid to energize its electromagnetic coil to draw the ring assembly down against its two contact points, with these closing the electrical 12 volt circuit to the motor, to energize it. So worn/burnt pitted ring or contacts that will not make a good enough contacts, no power to the motor to spin it. Or, problems in the wiring before the starter solenoid, with not enough power sent to the starter solenoid in the first place, so the coil has enough power to energize it, to draw the ring assembly down into the contacts and hold them against each other as the motor is powered up isntead.

Or, problem could be as simple as loose ground wire at the motor off the battery/to the battery terminal, and although the positive side is good, motor ground side for the starter the problem with not enough current under load to the starter motor to spin it.

 

Can't state the importance of good cables and wire connections. Time takes it toll. Even cables that look good could be totally oxidized under the sheath.Don't ignore the starter contacts either.

 

thanks. i put the tender on for an hour or so and it actually cranked the engine over before going back to clicking starter motor. so my idea is to charge it with a proper battery charger not the battery tender. good idea ?

 

As Dano indicated above, while you're doing all that, go get it load tested. Yes, could be a dud.

 

Like has been said, quit guessing and get it load tested. Then go from there. A battery can show good voltage but not have the amperage for cranking.

Even new batteries can have issues.

At 6 months old, if the battery was not maintained correctly, it could have sulfated.

Best to follow the logical path and rule out the battery first, then go to the troubleshooting mode for other issues.

 

Most shops that sell M/C batteries will test load your battery. If the battery is bad, just get one from them.

 

thanks theres a auto elec up the road who can check it. if its no good its back to my hd meck for warranty

 

This and if you are going to have the battery on the tender over the winter months when not riding it, get a tender that will de sulfate the battery as part of its steps. And one that you trust to work correctly, hence go into hold mode when the battery voltage is topped off, and not just stay in charge mode to boil the battery to cause dry cells instead.

As for the AG batteries, seeing a tend with them not being filled to completely to fully saturate the glass mates, and the battery do go dry way to fast instead. Hence about the only motorcycle agm batteries I trust right now to be filled correctly and now to last more than a year or two, is the Yusa batteries.

Hence between a wet cell battery and a AGM battery, is the distilled water/acid mix is contained in the glass matts so the fluid does not slosh around on a AGM battery.


If the bike voltage regulator has been over charging the system with too high of voltage, or tender over charging the system, then this creates heat, which boils the distilled water out of the battery fluid, throw the vents and creates a dry cell. If battery is really boiled with it over charged too fast, then vents can not vent the steam pressure fast enough and the battery will swell/tear up the plates as well.

 

If you are using a good voltmeter and the voltage is only dropping to 11.2 volts at the starter, there is something wrong with the starter.. If you are relying on a HD dash meter, try a good voltmeter first.