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And just does away of the tilt kill sensor in the unit, if you drop the bike.
As for the oem cam sensor with tilt kill, the new units will be black epoxy, since it holds up to heat better than the older brown epoxy
As for the oem cam sensor with tilt kill, the new units will be black epoxy, since it holds up to heat better than the older brown epoxy
Since this a carb'd bike, before you go loosen the bolts for the sensor, mark the V on the sensor plate to the nose cone, so you can reinstall the new sensor (either spa3 or oem) back to the same timing. If you don't, then will need to break out a timing light, remove the timing plug on the other side of the motor and play the motor oil spray game as you re-time the sensor again if you loose the old timing index.
I say oil spray game, since plastic cover for timing do suck ,and easier to just leave the timing plug open to center the timing mark to opening via rotation adjusting the can senor. Hence one person on the primary side using timing light into engine opening, and person on the other side to rotate cam plate on bolts, until timing light has the marked centered that that person calls out, and then per on sensor side, locks the cam sensor in place.
As for if bike was fuel injected, then the bolts would go through the round fixed position holes on the plate, not the slots, since the MM bikes used a different sensor cup and ecm take care of the timing adjustement.
To add, the end of wire connector is just in front of the rear brake pressure switch. get to it from the bottom of the bike, make sure to take a photo of the wire colors to pin connector before you de-pin the connector, run the new sensor wires in same locations, and make sure to install the wires back into the connector to the same wire color pining. Hence both sensors do not come with end wires connected to the connector, since the connector would never fit through the nose cone cover wire channel.
Also, on the bottom of cover outside, your missing the wire cover hold down plate, so make sure to install it when you install the new sensor, and leave enough wire slack in the inside of the cone cover, that you have enough room to pull the sensor out and push it to the side, still connected and wire cover in place. More than you have now inside the nose cone cover.
To add, the end of wire connector is just in front of the rear brake pressure switch. get to it from the bottom of the bike, make sure to take a photo of the wire colors to pin connector before you de-pin the connector, run the new sensor wires in same locations, and make sure to install the wires back into the connector to the same wire color pining. Hence both sensors do not come with end wires connected to the connector, since the connector would never fit through the nose cone cover wire channel.
Also, on the bottom of cover outside, your missing the wire cover hold down plate, so make sure to install it when you install the new sensor, and leave enough wire slack in the inside of the cone cover, that you have enough room to pull the sensor out and push it to the side, still connected and wire cover in place. More than you have now inside the nose cone cover.
Sharp eye there! I had already removed cover plate.
All this work just to change cam bearing. I bought bike two years ago with 925 miles on it (A REAL GARAGE QUEEN) I have put 11 K on it now. No plan to change cam out as I am leaving exhaust stock, the way I like it. I am going to drop in new lifters, they are fine but 26 years old. I broke off the stand-off bolt holding the ignition sensor in nose cone so had the added chore of removing broke bolt from nose cone.
I did this the long way around, keeping the stock push rods but I have plenty of time till Spring.
Thanks for Info, I read a lot of post on here, GOOD info.
Thanks,
Dennis
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