You can try a Dremel cut off wheel, cut on a angle so you don't cut into the housing, cut the slot almost all the way through, then get a small chisel and knock inward, the race is hardened so it should crack, if it doesn't crack easily, cut deeper, try not to, but even if you cut into the housing a little, it shouldn't affect the bearing press fit.

 

I hadn't even seen this response, but that's exactly what I did. Carefully used that cutoff wheel and then used pliers to bend the outer sleeve along those cuts, between the bending and the cutting, it started to just fall apart and was able to pull it out with some pliers. Glad someone else had the same idea and I wasn't just being manic by cutting lol.



New bearing pressed in

 

I always thought the bushing was a much better design over to bearing, nice job...

 

Been a while since I've updated this. Not much to report, life has severely gotten in the way these last two months. Two hurricanes, the holidays, a passing in the family, and work will do that though. The engine is completed however!

 

So close yet so far. It's loaded up to take it to a shop to get the wiring finished. Bike isn't firing, so hoping they can get that running for me.

 

This year has been a complete **** show, hence no updates. Shop wasn't able to get the bike started, however I found out the starting issue myself. The high torque starter was supposed to come with a thin metal wafer to put on the solenoid plunger but Dennis kirk never supplied it when i bought the starter, they claimed I didnt need it despite the instructions saying you may need it. Got them to send me one anyways and got that installed, and now the starter is working like a champ.

Issue now is there is just too much compression to turn over, even with compression releases. Engine builder told me it was close to 13:1. The next step would be to upgrade the starter, however I already have the biggest starter available for these years. So had to come up with a new game plan, that is unfortunately going to cost a pretty penny. Swap the primary for a 94+ and change the starter to a bigger 2kw starter. This also would entail changing out the clutch basket and clutch. With the clutch basket though I can also lower the ring and pinion gear ratio to better help the starter. Means I now have to take the transmission back apart to swap the tapered main shaft for a splined mainshaft as well. (and if anyone is looking for a brand new evolution clutch basket and barnett scorpion clutch let me know ill cut you a good deal).

Going from seeing the light at the end of the tunnel to taking the transmission back apart is quite a setback, and a pretty costly one at that. One day I will get this thing running. Hurts the ego as much as the wallet. These are the things that I should have planned better from the start, but didnt know any better. You live and you learn.

Does anyone see any issues with swapping that mainshaft out? looking at part number 35042-91 for the main shaft, 60665-94 and 60432-94 for the primary covers and then Evolution stage 1 complete clutch kit for the '98-'06 big twin with the 84 ring gear. comp sprocket and chain would not have to change. I believe it'll all mount up and workout but not sure about the mainshaft, will I need to change the gears themselves? A lot of the gears have updated part numbers but not all of them, So I dont think I should have any problems with my gears?

 

Have you done a compression test to know where you're at?

 

I havent personally, engine builder told me it was around 13:1 which seems high, but the starter is burning up trying to turn over even with the releases, so i dont really know what else to do besides upgrade the starter.

 

Compression releases

 

Timing?