Ultima 107" motor on a 90 model Bagger
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
I still have the stock starter on my 1990 bike. I know an S&S 107 is not quite the same thing, but with automatic decompressors it manages just fine.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: Richmond BC.
Ordered a 120 this morning. Going to put it on my 85 FLHTC to replace the original 80" evo with a cracked rs case. already a have Barnet clutch with SE spring. Six speed Rev Tech I put in the stock hsg a couple of years back.
Ordered a one piece brg for primary. already has single fire Dayna Ign. Had to do that some years ago because of high compression. still have stock starter. Don't know how that will work out.
Anything anyone can think of will be welcome. Engine will be here Friday. Will put it in this weekend.
Thanks for your input.
Ordered a one piece brg for primary. already has single fire Dayna Ign. Had to do that some years ago because of high compression. still have stock starter. Don't know how that will work out.
Anything anyone can think of will be welcome. Engine will be here Friday. Will put it in this weekend.
Thanks for your input.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Be sure to check all engine to frame clearances. Put new hoses on it. Check the clearance of the throttle linkage on the carb to the tank. Most of them either hit or are way to close when the throttle goes through it's range of motion and will hit the tank. Hook up the VOES and set it for 6.5 HGMM. Double check the torque on the manifold and rocker boxes before you put it in. When you tighten the little set screw for the alternator plug, just go in until it is just past flush then stop. If you have any questions or concerns please send us a message with your phone number and we will call you. Hope this helps.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: Richmond BC.
You should check the torque on all of the bolts in the oil pump before putting the motor in the frame (mine were loose) make sure you prime the oil pump by pulling out the check ball. I rolled mine over with the plugs out and ignition disconnected till I got oil pressure and did this several times. Then when you heat cycle it make sure not to blip the throttle as I have seen it spit out the head gasket, take it real easy on the break in as it says in the manual and you shouldn't have any problems. If you do they stand behind what they sell. When you do set the lifters don't do as it says in the manual at TDC but set them on the heel of the cam it makes a big difference. I tried the VOES set at 6.5 and then 7" but found it runs better with out it, as recommended. If you have to replace the intake manifold seals don't use the harley ones (they are too thick) use the ones from S&S they last better and fit better. Order the Gasket set for your engine from Ultima as they use good gaskets and some of them are different (oil pump for example) just in case you want to change something.
Novice
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
OK. Engine is in and running. Only ran for a few min. Started right up, sounds good, no running issues. No leaks. I have a rattling-ticking noise, sounds like its in the primary? How much space should be between the nut, 40392-70 and the cover, 40267-85? I don't remember any space but on this sprocket shaft there is a good 1/8". Thought that may be the noise. Used in this order, 29961-85 spacer, 29957-81B Rotor, 29960-85 spacer, 3 thin shim washers for sprocket alignment, 40266-85 ext shaft, 40269-85 sprocket, 40299-83 sliding cam, 40267-85 cover and 40392-70 nut. Inside of nut is bottomed out on tip of sprocket shaft. Should it be?
Had to clearence the front mt brktweld to mate on case, very little. Shimed engine up 1/4" @ front mt center bolt for clearence of oil pump cover outlet fitting to oil filter. The outlet on the bottom of the cover only has about1/8" clearence to rear master cyl without shim. Than of course had to move gas tank up evan further.
Called Midwest and left message. Mabey they can drill and tap a cover with the outlet on the side or rear of the cover instead of the bottom. Or mabey sell me a blank one and i"ll drill and tap it. I am afraid if the front rubber mt breaks the engine will land on that fitting and break the pump cover.
Had to use the stock nose cone to clear front exh pipe. I think that was all the issues. Thank you for all your help guys. I'll keep you updated on progress and take some pics and post them.
Had to clearence the front mt brktweld to mate on case, very little. Shimed engine up 1/4" @ front mt center bolt for clearence of oil pump cover outlet fitting to oil filter. The outlet on the bottom of the cover only has about1/8" clearence to rear master cyl without shim. Than of course had to move gas tank up evan further.
Called Midwest and left message. Mabey they can drill and tap a cover with the outlet on the side or rear of the cover instead of the bottom. Or mabey sell me a blank one and i"ll drill and tap it. I am afraid if the front rubber mt breaks the engine will land on that fitting and break the pump cover.
Had to use the stock nose cone to clear front exh pipe. I think that was all the issues. Thank you for all your help guys. I'll keep you updated on progress and take some pics and post them.
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 535
Likes: 14
From: Highspire Pa
I had similar issues with the rear brake master cylinder, I raised the engine a little (1/8") and filed the bracket that holds the master cylinder but like your setup I don't have a lot of clearance. I raised the rear of the tank but not enough the first time, and after about 250 miles, the tank hit the carb and broke the little throttle lever. I had to wait a couple weeks for a replacement. I also tried different mounts but found the latest version ( D? ) from Harley works best.
Novice
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Just remembered having this carb problem with the 45 Makuni I had on the 80". Rotated the carb to about one O clock on the stock motor and took care of it. Just did that with this one and have alot of clearence. Will let the tank down some and see how little I can get away with.
took it for a short ride, 35 mi and it ran great. didn't get into it at all, but it feels strong. tomorrow I'll see if I can't pinpoint this noise. pretty sure its in the primary. Guess I'll be taking that back down. Can't wait to put some miles on this thing.
took it for a short ride, 35 mi and it ran great. didn't get into it at all, but it feels strong. tomorrow I'll see if I can't pinpoint this noise. pretty sure its in the primary. Guess I'll be taking that back down. Can't wait to put some miles on this thing.
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Novice
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Hey John, You were right about checking bolt torques. The timing plug on this one was loose. Couldn'n pinpoint the noise with a stethoscope. I had the timing too far up it was detonating. When I changed the nose cone swaped out the dana ign, changed to the lowest curve, but I didn't retard enough when put back in. The Ultima Ign went back in last night and static timed with the led. Will ride it today and see what I get. Checked the cyls with a borescope everything looks good so gess I didn't hurt anything.
Pajoe Ultima has a different oil pump cover for 84-91, but its on backorder. I put one on order. If its dosen't not have the return on the bottom of the cover. I'll take this one off, put a flush plug in the bottom hole and drill and tap one on the side in the same chamber.
Ultima never returned the call. Probably because it didn't have anything to do with warranty?
More when I get baqck.
Pajoe Ultima has a different oil pump cover for 84-91, but its on backorder. I put one on order. If its dosen't not have the return on the bottom of the cover. I'll take this one off, put a flush plug in the bottom hole and drill and tap one on the side in the same chamber.
Ultima never returned the call. Probably because it didn't have anything to do with warranty?
More when I get baqck.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Hey John, You were right about checking bolt torques. The timing plug on this one was loose. Couldn'n pinpoint the noise with a stethoscope. I had the timing too far up it was detonating. When I changed the nose cone swaped out the dana ign, changed to the lowest curve, but I didn't retard enough when put back in. The Ultima Ign went back in last night and static timed with the led. Will ride it today and see what I get. Checked the cyls with a borescope everything looks good so gess I didn't hurt anything.
Pajoe Ultima has a different oil pump cover for 84-91, but its on backorder. I put one on order. If its dosen't not have the return on the bottom of the cover. I'll take this one off, put a flush plug in the bottom hole and drill and tap one on the side in the same chamber.
Ultima never returned the call. Probably because it didn't have anything to do with warranty? Rotateing the carb can play havoc with the float level making the bike run leaner/richer than it should with the jet that is installed.
More when I get baqck.
Pajoe Ultima has a different oil pump cover for 84-91, but its on backorder. I put one on order. If its dosen't not have the return on the bottom of the cover. I'll take this one off, put a flush plug in the bottom hole and drill and tap one on the side in the same chamber.
Ultima never returned the call. Probably because it didn't have anything to do with warranty? Rotateing the carb can play havoc with the float level making the bike run leaner/richer than it should with the jet that is installed.
More when I get baqck.
Last edited by miacycles; Mar 27, 2010 at 12:58 PM.