No didn't hook up the VOES. I saw your note about 7" merc. I didn't see any way to adj the stock one and the highest one I found was 6". Were do I get an adjustable or one set to 7"? Your right about the float level. It will cause lean cond if very far off. this also did not turn out very well on this engine, as the linkage on the rear of this carb hit the tank at about half throttle. Had to shim the tank back up. I don't know if it would work if the engine was not shimmed up for oil pump to master cyl clearence. The HR 45 on the old engine worked good and I had used a leaner idle and pump nosel and a leaner needle, all set up using the tuners manual instructions. That is a great tool. The result was too good to believe. When I get the other pump cover I'll give it another look. Put a little over a hundred miles on today. It ran great. No snags, just a little cold out there for me. 40 and not much sun.

Thank yall for all the help.

 

On the end of the VOES you will see some sealant. Dig it out carefully, there is a brass straight bladed screw in there, turn it until you get the reading you want. Then double and triple check it. After that seal it up with RTV silicone and you are all set. We are running a Dyna 2000 i on the second curve, with the timing mark centered, and the VOES. I can make it "ping" if I really try, but normally it runs fine. Hope this helps

 

Daytona Twin Tec sells VOES switches that are set up higher, mine was set at 7 hg.

VOES-KIT-MC7 $44.50

http://www.daytona-twintec.com/model_1005.html


Personally, I would get rid of the detonation before I add the VOES as the VOES will advance the timing. There is a good explanation at Pilgrims web site but I DO NOT use his way of wiring in the led indicator. The ignition modules work well with the standard 12V led indicator sold at auto parts stores wired in series and it will light when the timing is being advanced. If you wire it the way Pilgrim describes it the led will work but the timing will always be advanced as the ignition model will find ground though the 12 v indicator.

The Ultima programmable ignition module I use also has an indicator so I was able confirm my indicator on the handlebar mounted air-fuel ration gauge matched the ignition module indicator just my revving the engine.

http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_voes.html

 

PaJoe,
Actually the VOES retards the timing when the vacum drops, as in hard acceleration and heavy part throttle loads. The VOES and going 1 tooth smaller on our baggers tranny sprocket basically got rid of all of our detonation in first through fifth gears and allowed us to run more initial timing, which gave us more HP and Torque. The overdrive tranny makes up for the smaller pulley so we can still go down the road.

 

I admit it's a subtle difference and can be misleading to some. The VOES switch closes, allowing the current to go to ground, the ignition module electronics is waiting for a ground and whenever it "sees" ground it uses the higher, more advanced curve which in affect advances the timing. When the switch is open it allows the timing to fall back, which many say "retards" the timing. If you remove the VOES and ground the VOES wire the timing will be advanced all the time, likewise if you keep the VOES wire from touching ground the timing is not on the aggressive advance curve. Ultima recommends you tape up the voes wire as they want you to keep the signal current from going to ground and that tells the ignition module to use the lower, slower advance curve. It can be checked at idle using the programmable ignition module, the led will light when it is grounded and the rpms will increase slightly, or if you unhook the voes wire from ground the rpms should drop slightly. If you hook up an ohm meter to the voes switch you will see that it is normally open , meaning the current is not passing through it, as you increase the vacuum to the point it is set up the switch closes and allows current to flow though it. When the vacuum drops the switch opens and the ignition module stops using the advanced curve.

After I typed this I found the manual for the ignition, here is a section concerning the VOES:

• V.O.E.S. SWITCH (NOT RECOMMENDED ON ULTIMA ENGINES)
VOES switches sense partial throttle openings (high vacuum) and open throttle (low vacuum) conditions in the intake manifold. All late model
Harley-Davidson engines incorporate a Vacuum Operated Electric Switch (VOES) in the intake manifold to sense the engine load. During part
throttle operation when manifold vacuum is high (i.e., light engine load), the switch closes, grounding the violet wire and causing the timing to
advance more rapidly.
This improves gas mileage at cruising speeds and provides crisper part-throttle response while preventing detonation during heavy engine
loading. Over the last few years switches are being produced that activate at a higher manifold vacuum and are required on larger cubic inch
engines. If you use VOES switches on large cubic inch engines your manifold vacuum is much higher and will require a non stock type VOES
switch that activates at a higher vacuum. VOES switches should be used on Ultima Engines by experienced tuners only.

 

Pajoe,
If you unhook the vacum hose going to your VOES, block the vacum leak, the engine speed will decrease indicating that the timing retards. Thats the easy way to see if your VOES is working. You can look in any Harley manual and see that. Please check out this site http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_voes.html
Hope this helps.

 

Think about it - if the VOES "retarded" the timing it would mean that it's job is to "retard" or hold back the timing and if this were true and it went bad the timing would stay advanced all the time because the VOES would not be holding it back or retarding it. On the other hand as the VOES it advances the timing and it becomes defective the timing does not advance with the advanced curve but rather uses the lower advance curve - even without a VOES the ignition module will still advance but not at the same rate. I know it's confusing and many say it retards the timing, and in a way you could say that but it is the other way around, it only seems to retard the timing because it no longer advances it , and it has to be that way or the engine would be damaged if anything went wrong with the VOES.

From the link in your reply:

And that is what the VOES does - it detects high vacuum and tells the black box to advance the timing.

 

What we are saying is basically the same thing. The VOES switch is a normally open switch, that is without any outside force (vacum) it is open. This means that the VOES lead from the ignition is not grounded and the spark is retarded. This is done so that if the switch or switch wiring should fail you will be in the potentially safer/retarded position. However when everything is running fine it is closed and the engine is running on its normal curve until a low vacum signal tells it to retard the timing.
Now if we really want to get a discussion we could start why the rear cylinder should be the number one cylinder not the front one !!!!!

 

For now the Ultima ign seem to have done the trick. I'll work on it after break in. Put 200 miles on it over the weekend. Sounds good ran great. No complaints. Has some lifter noise and light tick in the primary. This thing gives "Grabbing a Handful" some real meaning.

The primary on this thing is long overdue for overhaul. The chain and sprokets are the originals. I bought this thing new and have only ever cleaned it up and put it back on. Use the Harley spring loaded auto adjuster. I don't know exactly how many miles as this is the thire of fourth speedo. The gears in them wear out. I put 20000 miles on it last year alone, so its alot. Does anyone know anything about BDL belt drives. It dosen't cost any more to change this to belt than to replace chain and sprokets. Would it cut down on noise and with the exception of changing a belt once in awhile, what other differences? I take alot of trips in the good weather and often do 1200 mile three day weekends.

Thank Yall

 

Don't know anything about belt primaries. I assume you mean one that fits inside the primary cases? When I fitted my S&S motor I replaced crank sprocket and chain and fitted an M6 tensioner. That has quietened it a little, also improved gear changes.