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I'm soaking the pistons in PB Blaster overnight before I attempt removal. If they don't come off fairly easily, which I expect they won't, I will have to resort to stronger potions. I seem to recall a mixture of ATF and something else works well. Anyone know the other ingredient?
PB Blaster wasn't enough. I pounded the edges of the pistons and they didn't move, except to dislodge the jugs from the case. I wish I had my oxy/acetylene setup here, I would put a ton of heat to the pistons to break them free.
I don't think this crankset is worth saving, the bearings are probably rusty. But 80" EVO stuff is pretty cheap, I think.
On a positive note, the transmission doesn't look all that bad above the waterline. I'll flush it out with ATF and take it apart when I can get my hands on a pulley socket next week.
I'll bring the motor to the shop and get his opinion on that too.
If it were me, Id probably grab some 3 5/8 stroker wheels and some pistons for stock Evo 3 1/2 inch cylinders and build a mild little stroker while youre at it. You wont hurt the resale value at this point. And itll be a lot more fun to ride and the parts will cost the same as if you rebuilt it as a stock 80 inch
since it is a light bike, Id probably go with like an EV 46 Cam I would repair the heads as stock with a really good valve job. Thats probably worth about 85 to 90 hp and it would be reliable and run cool still.
Last edited by Rains2much; Mar 8, 2025 at 04:56 PM.
I thought about a mild stroker with pistons to match, since I need both. But I don't know how far down a rabbit hole of 'while I'm at it' I'd go to accomplish this. Things I have no idea about like oil drain holes, etc. Also the cost, as I'd be looking at used stock stuff.
Wow, that bottom end looks nasty. An 89" stroker would be nice, but you could also build a nice running 80". Maybe up the compression to 9.5/1 add a mild cam and you would have a nice running motor.
That's what I was thinking, @BB.No8 I also have a light 74 cu in shovelhead with 9.5 pistons and an Andrews A2 cam and it runs great! I can keep up with modern baggers up to about 65, then they shift into 5th and walk away. I'll talk to a couple of shop guys about my options and costs.
Are you guys talking about a 3-angle valve job or is there more to it than that?
A 3 angle valve job and just clean up the ports of casting flanges and smooth the area above the valve (pocket porting) is the best bang for the buck. I have seen 5 angle valve jobs and also a radiused valve seat made with a cutter, but you really don't need to go that far with it on a mild build street motor.
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