I should have a set of those turn signals in my stash, had them on a Wide Glide way back when. If you still are looking, reach out and I will look around the basement.

 

He’s talking A grinds, EV27, 9:1, 9.5:1 compression, likely stock rebuilt wheels… nothing wrong with that, can be a great reliable motor, but I wouldn’t put a lot into porting. Sure maybe run a 60 grit cartridge roll through there to clean the flashing, could even clean around seats and stem support, but he’ll never realize that increase with that low of compression and mild cams. You HAVE to do a valve job, so I’d put a little extra into that being done right. You’d likely see that difference.
Remember too… these engines are now like the Shovelheads.. they’ve seen thousands of heat cycles, are 25 years old or more.. the cases and heads are really only good to about 90hp before you start stressing things. Maybe the 95ish up cases are a little stronger, but you’re still fighting the years of heat cycles. I love little stock builds for pep and reliability.. but I like to be realistic that I’m capping power at about 90 horse. Otherwise “build” a big motor with new better materials.

Say one guy spends $1600 on rebuilding his 80” and then sees 80-85 hp. Another guy pulls out all the stops and spends $4,000 to see… 90 maybe 95 hp. Or if he’s “unlucky” he sees 105 hp and then blows it up… me, the return on investment for like $1600 is all I’d do.

If power is the goal and not using the original cases.. go find a used big crate motor off Facebook and rebuild that and put it in there. My Road King… bought a 113” for $500. I rebuilt it for like $1500. I now have a 120-130hp engine with super thick stronger materials that can handle that power for less money than building the stock cases.

I have the original 125k 80” from my 98 Road King. I’m going to split the cases just for fun, run through everything. I’m going with 10:1, self porting stock heads, good valve job, either EV46 or EV51 and a S&S E and I’ll just keep it. I’m not sure what or if I’ll ever use it. Maybe one day it goes back into the Road King… who knows. But I’m not going to put very much money into it. Not when for less I could build something more serious buying a used crate motor.

 

 

somebody on this forum bought a set of those and after receiving them said they “looked” good. I’m less apprehensive than most to trust inexpensive parts because I just had no money when I was younger. I got away with a lot. Nice big name brand parts we’re just way out of reach for me. I’m the guy who ran a 11 second street shovel using 11-12:1 with Dixie Cylinders and Dixie clutches..

I’m the guy who cut keystone light beer cans to make shims under 351 Cleveland rockers cause I couldn’t afford adjustable studs…. I’m the guy who packed differentials just right to make poor man’s posi traction…. I was always lucky and did the things everyone said can’t be done. When I’d get Counseled at the track by elders with nice stuff I’d try to be respectful. But it always seemed odd they’d tell me what I was doing wrong while I ran faster than them…. They’d look at my tools in disgust shacking their heads, lol. They were crap lol, but they were my crap and I was grateful for them. Do what you gotta do.

I’m rambling… but I have work I don’t want to do, so I’ll ramble more. The best was those years with my Ranger pick up. I’d roll in with my 250,000 mile ranger with my shovelhead loaded in the back. I’d pull in and use my homemade 2x8 8ft long board with my welded up little bracket to roll my bike off. I’d lay my cardboard down and unbungie my Tupperware plastic storage bin that was flipped upside down over my toolbox. And I get ready for the day. Then I look over and they roll in with an RV set up a tent literally have some kind of bike lifts. They go get a beer out of the refrigerator and I’ll go open my igloo cooler and get my Keystone light beer lol. They have 3-5 bikes, running in different classes and I have my one bike just for hot street. Lol. They’d have a couple guys… I was by myself.

Some expensive parts are no doubt worth it. We’ll made High quality. But for everyone, in my opinion there is another expensive part that was just hype. For every cheap part or tool there was junk but there was also some bargains worth the money that were enough. Those with fat wallets look at anything in-expensive as inferior and foolish. Those with very limited with money would see the potential of “some” cheap stuff. You get good at guessing which cheap part had value and which wasn’t worth a plug nickel.

 

@BB.No8 Gotcha, that's what I was thinking. @Architect Thanks, I sent you a PM. @Rains2much I agree, no reason to go crazy on this build, my Ricky Racer days are long over. I have a totally stock 98 Dyna here in FL. It gets the job done, but it could use just a little more. I briefly looked at big crate motors, but decided not to go that way. I've had fun fast cars, and know the thrill of twisting the throttle fades, and I'd be wanting more. I'd also be chasing the next weak link in the drive train. @eighteight I have that same rod set in my 82 FXR. The machine shop was impressed with the quality for the price when he rebuilt the crank. But I think a good used crank would be cheaper than rebuilding mine, right?

 

Beautiful Springer!!
FWIW, I got rid of the hyper-charger on my '97 and went with an Arlen Ness big sucker. I think it looks better and it definitely takes up less room.

 

Nice bike @YZR I'll probably just go with the classic S&S teardrop because that's the carb.

I finally finished one step in this project, the transmission is all cleaned out and soaking in ATF until next year:




When I took the top off it didn't look too bad, but remember how the side cover told another story.



This didn't look to bad



I filled and drained it with ATF/acetone three times, and got to this.



I brought it to the shop and he spun the gears and declared it good, but I needed to get ride of the rust on the gears, etc. He recommended soaking in apple cider vinegar overnight. This is after a few hours:



Today I say anything that was there is gone:



I flushed it all out with water, then removed the shift forks and side cover and gave it a good going-over with a nylon brush and more ATF/acetone. Another couple of flushes and it came out clean. So I filled it with two quarts of ATF and it will sit until I'm ready to clean and paint it next year.

 

Motor's out, cleaned up, and I will bring it to the shop tomorrow. I'll know my options after I talk to him. Rebuild or replace? Any bets? LOL

 

The hard part about your tare down (can’t be avoided) is it will take time to sort through, recondition everything. Enough time will go by that it’s harder to remember each part, where it goes, the order it goes back together.. When I get into projects like that, I wind up putting together and taking back apart to get the right order for everything to be put back. Even with manuals and pictures it adds a little frustration.

 

@Rains2much you sound like my brother LOL! The most important tool I have for long projects like this is the factory parts manual. Between that and as many photos as I can remember to take, I hope I'll be OK. If not, there is this forum. It took me 2 years to restore my 82 FXR and it scored 99+ points under AMCA judging.

[edit] I dropped the motor off, he'll rebuild the crankshaft, bore the cylinders, fit stock-type pistons (9.5:1), rebuild the heads, and assemble the lower end. I'll also get an EV27 cam and new lifters from him. He says it'll be done in a few weeks, too!