To me the frame looks OEM but I think it's a Softail Heritage with a Wide Glide rear fender and aftermarket front., Post up a pick of the right side of the goose neck of the frame where the VIN should be stamped in it.
Cases are as John mentioned but does not indicate it's not a Harley Softail. Definitely has base gaskets and primary leaks,, Might have to remove the inner primary to check the lip on the case for cracks where the O-ring goes. If the cases have been replaced it's very possible that there are many mods to the motor. Before you tear it down to repair the leaks, Do a compression test and a leak down test on the cylinders.You definitely need that before a tear down to know if there are other issues to address while torn down..
Take a lot of pics throughout the process and note how thick the head and base gaskets are. Once the Heads are off re-secure the cylinders to the case with 2, 1" or 1 1/4" pieces of 3/4" PVC so you can measure the stroke of the motor from TDC to BDC. Measuring the pistons in the hole is always good info as well, could be .002" or even .010" and this info will be helpful later down the road if you plan on doing upgrades.
You could have anything, and all these measurements and tests will give you all the info you need to figure out what you have. And if you get really curious at this point you might as well remove the cam to see what's in it.. Good luck..
Looks pretty decent for $1500....

 

Agree with Heritage Softail. Anyway a journey going to start. Congrats

 

I have stripped the bike down to just the engine in the frame. Once I removed the front end, I was able to see the numbers stamped. Not a harley davidson vin. The pictures show some number and Canada stamped. I was informed by the dealer that it was registered as an antique. Ultimately they are taking care of it and I will be given a title and registration. A little strange, but I do not care as long as I have the paperwork.
I was forced to remove the engine because the rear head had a allen bolt positioned under the frame. I had seen that the harley frames had an opening to give access to the allen bolt but this frame did not. The house of horsepower engine block indicates like Yankee Dog said, this was put together to make it a “Mine” bike.
I am making numerous mistakes as I go along. I have learned to “READ THE ****ING MANUAL BEFORE YOU START DOING SOMETHING STUPID!”. I did not do the compression test or leak down test as 98HotRodFatBoy suggested. I will try to listen better to suggestions and advice. I pulled the gear case cover and timing gears out. This is where I should have read the manual and pulled the top ends off first. When I was pulling the case off, it would go so much and then stop like it was hitting something. Well I kept doing it as i was noticing that it was slowly moving so I continued until it pulled out. The part that came out not in any diagram in the services manual. It appears the lobes were hitting the rollers on the lifters slowly working past them by shifting itself/them? End result is a small nick on one of the lifters(see picture). If I had removed the heads and tappets first (LIKE THE MANUALS SAYS) this would not have occurred. The newbie is learning. Tomorrow I hope to pull the jugs off entirely and check the rods for any play. I hope not to have to split the crankcase.

 

By removing the cam the way you did without removing the rocker assemblies first to relieve valve spring pressure on the lifter and cam, it's possible you might have damaged the can bearing.. You might want to replace the cam bearing..
I doubt you knocked the can love removing it but you will need a new one. What are your plans for upgrading the motor once you find out every thing that is in it?
On after market cams usually on the very end of the cam, the part that goes into the inner cam bearing there are identifiable letters and numbers. Can you post up pics of both ends of the cam (to include the face of the cam gear and better pics of the cam lobes) so we can help you to identify it?

 

Looks like your going to do a complete re build but I wouldn't do nothing until you have the title straighten out.

 

My friends it’s cool that your doing this, takes nerve if you haven’t before.. I’d like to suggest you slow down. Accept this will take time and patience. Take pics and ask us before you tare things apart. Let us give you advice before. I only say this so we can help save you money and possibly time in the long run. Lots of potential. Will be a nice running bike.

 

Look around, but breather shim has fallen off, and somewhere on the ground.

Its the orange thing in this picture,




As for frame, at one time, it did have a welded on factory plate on the frame, but that was ripped off, and other markings stamped into the frame. As stated, a little strange, but if seller getts you a FL title with it that way, then all should be good.

 

Dan523, thanks, I will look for that. I am doing all this outside. I swept up the area already and did not see anything in the debris. Worst case is I will have to purchase one.

Thanks Rains2much, I expect that this will take six months to a year. I am not in a rush. I pulled the tappets and jugs. Everything bagged and labeled front and back. All that remains are the pistons, oil pump, and the left side wheel/cone? I have to look in the manual to see how all that comes apart and watch any videos as well. I can read, but it takes five times to begin to visualize. When I see a video and then read, I have something to hang the information on in my head. I am a visual guy.
Regarding the cranks, I checked the play on the arms and there is no vertical movement. There is lateral but that feels like it should be there. So I believe I will not have to crack open the crank box. Now that the engine is just the bottom, I will bring it over to a mechanic who suggested pulling the arms. I just want to confirm that I am judging the movement correctly.

Ordered a cam bearing and the tool to pull it out and install the new one. That is down the road.

The next step is cleaning all the parts. I ordered a Vevor 15L ultrasonic cleaner. I believe it is a worthy investment given the detail of everything to clean. If anyone has experience using one, I would appreciate suggestions on the type of solvents to use for which parts. (heads, pistons, nuts, carburetor, etc…).

Given the wire harness is 35 years old, I plan to rebuild that reusing the terminal blocks OR purchasing a new harness with more current components. Suggestions again are invited.

Now just because I think they look REALLY COOL,(but no experience with them) I am thinking of putting a springer front end on. I have looked at some of the threads about them, but would not mind suggestions. My riding style is local, I am not a bar hopper. I just like to go for a ride. I do not plan to use this bike on any long rides of more than 2 hours. The vibration when I drove home told my hands that after an hour and half they will feel that numb state from vibration. I have a Suzuki dl1000 for any distances longer then that. (Actually contemplating a cross country trip in September but that’s another story).

Any suggestions on the types of tools I should expect to get.

I believe the title will be squared away, the ABSOLUTE worst case scenario would be that I have to purchase a frame with a title, but I do not believe that will happen.

 

OK, I will be the guy form NY that says it.

Someone way back when called their bike into the Insurance Company as stolen and got their loan paid off. Then they bought aftermarket cases and a Canadian frame with a MSO and bolted all the stock parts back on. Then they went to DMV with some paperwork and got her registered as a "Custom" or "Special Construction" if your prefer. If happened so long ago, now the bike is old and can be registered as an Antique. Very common occurrence at one time in MC history.

Since you didn't do it and you have a Title, probably nothing to worry about. But I bet a beer that is her back story. Good luck with the rebuild.

 

You live and learn.