When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Don't,
it binds the clutch cable to the side end cable fitting that goes through the case cover, and it creates a lot more slop in the cable to housing, that you have to adjust the cable adjuster way out.
At least in this kit, they give you an extra piece to deal with the extra cable slack that is creates to the housing, but still run into the same problem as cable trying to eat the cable end piece that threads into the trans cover to take the entire clutch cable with sheild out faster..
If you want a lighter clutch pull, then change entire cam plate system out from the standard 18* , to 21* instead.
Also, don't try to cheap out on the low priced plates and ***** that amazon tries to pawn off as descent, since you get what you pay for,
and some of the cheap ones,the ***** will flat spot quickly and the ramps wear out even faster (pay the $100 plus for a quality easy pull cam plate assembly) https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=43832.0
Don't,
it binds the clutch cable to the side end cable fitting that goes through the case cover, and it creates a lot more slop in the cable to housing, that you have to adjust the cable adjuster way out.
At least in this kit, they give you an extra piece to deal with the extra cable slack that is creates to the housing, but still run into the same problem as cable trying to eat the cable end piece that threads into the trans cover to take the entire clutch cable with sheild out faster.. https://www.amazon.com/Clutch-Lever-.../dp/B0BQ2SY7WC
If you want a lighter clutch pull, then change entire cam plate system out from the standard 18* , to 21* instead.
Also, don't try to cheap out on the low priced plates and ***** that amazon tries to pawn off as descent, since you get what you pay for,
and some of the cheap ones,the ***** will flat spot quickly and the ramps wear out even faster (pay the $100 plus for a quality easy pull cam plate assembly) https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=43832.0
If my thinking is correct, it looks like the 'Muller' is the way to go. ***** would sit closer to the center pivot point creating a longer fulcrum to the cable connection point. Making it easier to pull. Is that right?
Don't,
it binds the clutch cable to the side end cable fitting that goes through the case cover, and it creates a lot more slop in the cable to housing, that you have to adjust the cable adjuster way out.
At least in this kit, they give you an extra piece to deal with the extra cable slack that is creates to the housing, but still run into the same problem as cable trying to eat the cable end piece that threads into the trans cover to take the entire clutch cable with sheild out faster.. https://www.amazon.com/Clutch-Lever-.../dp/B0BQ2SY7WC
If you want a lighter clutch pull, then change entire cam plate system out from the standard 18* , to 21* instead.
Also, don't try to cheap out on the low priced plates and ***** that amazon tries to pawn off as descent, since you get what you pay for,
and some of the cheap ones,the ***** will flat spot quickly and the ramps wear out even faster (pay the $100 plus for a quality easy pull cam plate assembly) https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=43832.0
I think 98hotrodfatboy did some experimenting with changing the size of the ***** to get more clutch movement. Don't remember the details, and not sure if it changed hand effort.
Currently 3 of my bikes have that arm in it and they work great. My FXDX has a 480 lb. spring. My 131 ci FXR has about 420 lb. Barnet scorpion and my 113 evo bobber has more than 10 springs in a BDL belt drive clutch. They reduce the pull by about 33%.. I make some mods that make them work better.
First the spacer needs to be about 1/2 the thickness. This gets you more threads in the tranny cover. Second I install the part and cut the shift fork pin stop until the arm with cable stop rotating clockwise (left arrow) when pressing down on the outer plate and allowing the arm to rotate. Third I check to make sure that the T part of the arm does not drag against the outer cover. (right arrow). Use 1/2 turn on the center adjuster.
The angle is only slight and I haven't broken a clutch cable yet. The FXDX gas about 50K with that config. The FXR about 26K, The 113 about 50K tho the cables were changed about 10K ago when I went to apes..
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
Easy clutch?
