Since there is so much mis match shenanigans with parts on old bikes over the years I do it the hard way.

I’m sure many will come on here and say that I’m doing it all wrong, and maybe they’re right. It’s not like anyone ever pulled me aside and said this is how it should be done. Manual can’t account for mismatched hubs, rims, belt to chain conversions and so on.

I’ve built a number of choppers and drag bike frames where everything is odd parts. And I’ve laced up aluminum hubs, and aluminum rims for my current softail so this is what I do.

First, I get all the spacing correct with the wheel hub and brake. I lay it horizontal on a bench. I install the axle through the brake bracket and hub and torque it to spec with the brake Bracket with caliper in place. I test all my spacing with the pads and the rotors and get that to where it’s absolutely perfect and you can spin the bracket with caliper on the rotor in perfection.

Second, I mock up the wheel and axle through the swing arm, and I make sure that the tire is absolutely dead center with drivetrain and front wheel. If I have to move my rear fender a little bit that’s fine I get the fender dead center on the tire that’s already been put dead center with the front wheel & drive train.

Third, I start running spacers on the right hand side to make sure my wheel stays dead center where I want it to be. If that can’t be done, then you’ve got to lose the spokes and offset the rim and hub.

4th, once the right hand side is perfect, and the tire is dead center with the drive train and front wheel. Then I start all my spacing on the left-hand side for the sprocket. I get this, absolutely as dead on as I possibly can. I like it when I can rotate it many many times, and the chain is still dead center on the sprocket without shifting left or right this is where a lot of machining of your spacers comes to play.

5th all that’s left to do is get the spacer from the hub to frame right. I never use shims. I just start with a longer spacer and then machine down.. a dial caliper helps at every step to help determine the right thickness of each spacer.

Now this is how I do it. And I’m almost always never dealing with OEM parts. So I’m sure somebody smarter than me. We’ll come up with a better way and share in this thread. But I will say my bikes track 100% accurate and I try and get as much mile per hour from the chassis with his minimal vibration as possible. So my method works whether it sounds like it’s too hard or not.

 

This is great info - but - My issue is with the from wheel.

I've been doing a ton or parts-related research - and AI tools like ChatGPT and Copilot have unlocked a WEALTH of information, including source docs and sites like this one: Harley-Davidson Wheel Spacer Chart. Very helpful!

SMT has been helpful as well, double-checking their specs and build components to be sure I have the "correct" wheel assembly.

It looks so good - if only it was mounted!

Anyway, I've got a myriad of parts showing-up over the next few days. I am headed to Savannah for a long weekend of fun (non-bike trip). I'll be back on this late next week and hope to be rolling by next weekend.

I really appreciate everyone's help here. Almost there!

 

The 1/2 inch spacers are more than likely 1 inch spacers.. Makes me wonder about the accuracy if the list..

The wheel chart has errors. Early tc dyna had 2 front wheel sizes. 2.50 and 2.15 depending on whether spoked or mag.. Mush have been done by AI.