Engine alignment
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 62
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From: CT
Engine alignment
Has anyone done the engine alignment procedure where you adjust the stabilizer links? The service manual doesn't really tell you how to assure the back and front wheels are aligned before you adjust the stabilizers. I'm clear on how to make sure the rear wheel is centered in the swingarm, but I'm struggling how to tell how the front and rear wheels are aligned. I've seen mention of using two 8 foot fluorescent tubes and attaching them to the rear wheel, but I don't think I can do this when my bike is on the lift.
Has anyone done this who can offer an easy to follow procedure?
Has anyone done this who can offer an easy to follow procedure?
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 213
Likes: 2
RE: Engine alignment
I read the article also. If yourhave the two tube measured evenly apart and then measure from that point for even alignment it should work. To tell the truth I have never had to do it but it does look pretty simple and you know thhat the tubes are straight..
Keepme posted on how it goes.
Keepme posted on how it goes.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,389
Likes: 26
From: Windham,Maine
RE: Engine alignment
The best way is by the book,a straight edge to touch the tires in four places at the same time.First take a bolt out of the top link.Adjust the front linkto get that straight edge right.Thenadjust top link until bolt drops in.Done!
Oops
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
From: Pantego,NC.
RE: Engine alignment
Not trying to contradict anybody but you also have to set verticle alingment with a level.Once you have the straight edges set up properley use a level on the front rotor to get the bike level then adjust the top stablizer link so that the rear also becomes level.
As for using bulbs and the lift forget it.I take my lift jack and place it under the frame rails on the floor then lift it enough to support the bike.Then iuse some shims if nessary to level the bike vertically.Then i use 2x4s to raise the bulbs enough that they will go between the top and botttom of thejack. and i also use my metal press plates to hold the bulbs aginst the tire,so they dont try and roll.
Sounds hard but it is really easy.Also if the tire sizes are differnt you must measure the gaps so that they will be the same.
As for using bulbs and the lift forget it.I take my lift jack and place it under the frame rails on the floor then lift it enough to support the bike.Then iuse some shims if nessary to level the bike vertically.Then i use 2x4s to raise the bulbs enough that they will go between the top and botttom of thejack. and i also use my metal press plates to hold the bulbs aginst the tire,so they dont try and roll.
Sounds hard but it is really easy.Also if the tire sizes are differnt you must measure the gaps so that they will be the same.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,402
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
RE: Engine alignment
I'd agree with the top link adjustment, but I've aligned 53' trailers with the "proper equipment" and by the book and you couldn't hold them on a single lane. (some of them)
SO, do the top link, then fashion a measuring tool to make sure the rear axle is in perfect alignment with the swingarm. Then, DRIVE IT! On a flat smooth road, you should be able to turn loose (carefully) of the handlebars and run a straight line. If not, adjust the "side to side" link (bottom) about 3 turns one way (and keep account of how many) If thet helps or fixes it, good. If it's worse, then go back the other way. And tweak on it till you get it right.
I tried the straight-edge deal and there's too much room for error, and like I mentioned earlier, how they act when you're actually riding is the important thing.
SO, do the top link, then fashion a measuring tool to make sure the rear axle is in perfect alignment with the swingarm. Then, DRIVE IT! On a flat smooth road, you should be able to turn loose (carefully) of the handlebars and run a straight line. If not, adjust the "side to side" link (bottom) about 3 turns one way (and keep account of how many) If thet helps or fixes it, good. If it's worse, then go back the other way. And tweak on it till you get it right.
I tried the straight-edge deal and there's too much room for error, and like I mentioned earlier, how they act when you're actually riding is the important thing.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,389
Likes: 26
From: Windham,Maine
RE: Engine alignment
Have owned 2 Hot Rods now for several years and once the alignment was set the bikes ride like they were on rails.Very simple,very quick,and it works.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
RE: Engine alignment
I always keep a eye on the motor links However on one occasion I noticed the back tire was wearing alot more on the left side With a dunlop D402 tread pattern it was obvious I'd grab the top engine stabilizer and find it tight (heim joints ok ) Next I look at the swingarm pivot shaft (pop off the chrome covers) On the left side the shaft nut was not centered it was toward the bottom of the swingarm bracket inspection hole The right side was to the top So I went back to the top stabilizer undid the bolts noticing there was no tension on the stabilizer It turned out the threads were stripped on one side Put a new stabilizer on and adjusted it till the pivot shaft was centered on both sides I guess at 50,000 miles something had to go! Thank God it wasn't the rider!
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