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Alright folks, here is my problem.
I have a 1997 FLSTF Fatboy with 6500 miles. (Nice ride) Just installed a new Andrews EV-27 camwith inner bearing, Sifton lifters and Andrews adjustable pushrods. But thesame onelifter (rear exhaust)will not bleed down and pushrod is tight. Have pulledrear liftersout twice tobleed/drain oil and replacedthem dry. After adjusting the pushrodsand waiting 15 minutes stillnot able to roll the exhaust pushrod in my fingers. The other three pushrodsroll in my fingers like butter. What gives???? I can roll the engine over in gear with no problems but I am concerned!!!!
It seems that this rear exhaust lifter fills with oil fast but the rear intake is still empty.
ANY HELP OR SUGGESTIONS??????
This is my first EVO cam and all went together great up to this hiccup!!!
This might sound dumb Is the rear exhaust valve at the bottom of the cam ( exhaust valve closed ) If it is move the lifter in question to a different pushrod ( say front exhaust) see if this happens their If it does BAD LIFTER!!!
I had a real slow one once....took it 20 minutes first time.
anyway, you can't bleed them dryby any other way than taking them apart - I mean the lifter guts.
When you adjusted the tubes, did you notice that one didn't "wiggle" a little at zero clearance before you turned the rods another 3 or however many turns?
If you're sure you did it right, you may needto take that one out (yea, I know - pain in the butt) and remove the lock-ring. Take out the guts and lay them out on a cloth and look REAL close for anything burred. If it looks good, dry it all contact cleaner (or similar)and a lint free cloth and put it back together. From bone dry you can adjustit perthe others, just beeasy with finding the initial "zero clearance" and don't be worried about it taking maybe 30 - 45 seconds to pump up.
And remember, when the front exhaust is up - adjust both rear lifters. When rear exhaust is up - adjust both front lifters.
(don't mean to sound insulting, but sometimes the most simple mistakes will cause no end of frustrations. And yes, my hand is raised in guilt of that more than a few times)
I have pulled the offending lifter block twice.
1st time I just pulled out only the bad lifter and pulled it totally apart
(plunger,spring allcleaned with brake cleaner) and reinstalled it.
2nd time pulled the lifter block and cleaned both lifters till dry.
then swapped each and still no joy!
Even blew threw both to prove that the valve worked.
I even loosened all pushrods and went through adjusting all over again.
Still have the tight rear exhaust pushrod................
Only other thing I'd suggest (or dare try myself) would be to adjust it to zero and start the bike. Can't hurt anything since it would be adjusted like a solid. If it rattles (pretty loud) then you'd know it "moved" or broke loose, then you could try the correct adjustment. If no joy there, I'd put in another one for sure.
It was not the lifter not bleeding down! It was the pushrod contact point on the rocker arm.
It seems that the original pushrods fit fine but when using a adjustable pushrod the rocker arm needed to have some clearance added. Pulled out the Dremel tool and a grinding stone and radius the rocker arms and the pushrod now spins like butter!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Are you saying that you swapped the 2 rear lifters with each other and still bad on the rear exhaust?Then it can`t be the lifter.Is there a burr or some other problem with the block itself?Did you start the bike or turn it over by hand or with the starter with this problem?
Sorry about the double post.you hit the OK button just a hair before me.My next suggestion would have been for you to got to the rocker and see what was going on there.Glad you figured it out.Aren`t engine mods fun!!!Toby
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