Battery/Starter question
Ever since I bought the bike in May I've had an issue with starting the bike. It starts every time but it hardly ever turns all the way over on the first try. I press the start button and it will turn about half way over, like the battery is dead. Then it will turn all the way over and fire right up. Same thing happens if you feather the start button. But sometimes it takes 3 or 4 times if you use that method.
Now, I bought a trickle charger and keep it plugged up every night. And the bike always starts. But I've noticed that if I have to start it up 5 or 6 times in a trip, then it starts really dragging.
Do I just need a new battery or is the problem with the starter, relay, or solenoid.
I have the Clymer manual but it's a little confusing to me and would like a little direction on what to check/replace first.
The battery is over 14 volts after charging (unpluged). I've never checked the voltage after riding. I'm sure it's a little lower.
Thanks!
Now, I bought a trickle charger and keep it plugged up every night. And the bike always starts. But I've noticed that if I have to start it up 5 or 6 times in a trip, then it starts really dragging.
Do I just need a new battery or is the problem with the starter, relay, or solenoid.
I have the Clymer manual but it's a little confusing to me and would like a little direction on what to check/replace first.
The battery is over 14 volts after charging (unpluged). I've never checked the voltage after riding. I'm sure it's a little lower.
Thanks!
Last edited by 1986FXST; Aug 20, 2008 at 09:44 PM.
The symptoms were similar to those you describe:
I just replaced a 1 1/2 year old "Drag Specialties" battery in our '90 FLHTCU. I replaced the starter less than a year ago but feared it was the starter again. Many times it would not turn over when I first hit the start button, but after a second try it would spin and start OK - after I rode it for a while it seemed OK but would at random times not do anything when I hit the button or it would turn for a very short time and stop. I first tried installing a button on the end of the new starter and that would bypass a lot of wiring. Well this went on for months, several attempts then it would spin OK and start and last Saturday we stopped for something to eat and hit it 3 or 4 times - nothing but a bump, then tried the button on on the starter and after several attempts it turned over slowly and started. Naturally I forgot to turn the petcock on and got a few hundred feet down the road and it shut off but lucky for me it started OK.
We took the bike home and went to the local dealer for a new battery. So far every time it has spun and started OK, even spins faster than before when we start it after getting gas or stopping to eat. I read the batteries usually last 2 years but this one started going bad after 1 year and I do use battery tenders.
Ironic thing is about 3 weeks ago my wifes Buell Blast battery went bad without warning and I installed a new "Drag Specialties" battery in that one. At first I thought I left the parking light on, but then after jumping it and having it on a battery tender it would be ok for a while but sitting for a day or more and it would be down. I hooked up an amp meter in series with it to make sure there was not something draining it but in the end it needed a new battery. If this one goes bad in less than 2 years I will switch back to a Harley battery with that as well.
I just replaced a 1 1/2 year old "Drag Specialties" battery in our '90 FLHTCU. I replaced the starter less than a year ago but feared it was the starter again. Many times it would not turn over when I first hit the start button, but after a second try it would spin and start OK - after I rode it for a while it seemed OK but would at random times not do anything when I hit the button or it would turn for a very short time and stop. I first tried installing a button on the end of the new starter and that would bypass a lot of wiring. Well this went on for months, several attempts then it would spin OK and start and last Saturday we stopped for something to eat and hit it 3 or 4 times - nothing but a bump, then tried the button on on the starter and after several attempts it turned over slowly and started. Naturally I forgot to turn the petcock on and got a few hundred feet down the road and it shut off but lucky for me it started OK.
We took the bike home and went to the local dealer for a new battery. So far every time it has spun and started OK, even spins faster than before when we start it after getting gas or stopping to eat. I read the batteries usually last 2 years but this one started going bad after 1 year and I do use battery tenders.
Ironic thing is about 3 weeks ago my wifes Buell Blast battery went bad without warning and I installed a new "Drag Specialties" battery in that one. At first I thought I left the parking light on, but then after jumping it and having it on a battery tender it would be ok for a while but sitting for a day or more and it would be down. I hooked up an amp meter in series with it to make sure there was not something draining it but in the end it needed a new battery. If this one goes bad in less than 2 years I will switch back to a Harley battery with that as well.
I had starterproblems on me 90 FXSTC, found out it was the earthcable from the batterie to the frame was in poor condition.
Had to start till compression, stop starting than push in startbutton again and she went tru compression and started up..
Changed the earth cable for a new one and prob was solved , she now just spins around and starts immediately!!!
Had to start till compression, stop starting than push in startbutton again and she went tru compression and started up..
Changed the earth cable for a new one and prob was solved , she now just spins around and starts immediately!!!
Goode Dag, Frisian HD.
Bad battery cable as mentioned, or the cable from the batt to the solenoid, solenoid to starter, engine to chassis, any could be dirty with corrosion. But, in my experience, a weak battery is usually the culpret. A weak battery can show fully charged by voltage, but not have the current needed to crank the motor.
Bad battery cable as mentioned, or the cable from the batt to the solenoid, solenoid to starter, engine to chassis, any could be dirty with corrosion. But, in my experience, a weak battery is usually the culpret. A weak battery can show fully charged by voltage, but not have the current needed to crank the motor.
1986FXST,
The first thing I would check (because it's an easy test) is to jumper across the solenoid terminals. Using and old crappy screwdriver or something similar that you don't care too much about if it gets messed up, put a couple of expendable nuts on the solenoid 3/8" lugs and use the screwdriver to jump across 'em. When you are testing, push your start button to engage the starter gears and then, put the screwdriver across the terminals. If it cranks good, it is probably bad contacts in the solenoid. The next thing I would do is check the cables and connections (all of them) and their apparent condition (like, are they really stiff and how does the insulation look and any corrosion at the ends). If ya see something that you don't like, then I suggest #4 size battery cables, all three of 'em. If ya think they are okay, then look at the battery. If you can get another known good battery, test with it installed. You could try jumping from a car battery, just make sure your bikes battery is not connected while jumping from the car. Do you have a good, heavy ground wire installed from the tranny to the frame? I suggest a #6 welding cable type of ground wire there. Next, I would be looking at the starter motor itself.
The first thing I would check (because it's an easy test) is to jumper across the solenoid terminals. Using and old crappy screwdriver or something similar that you don't care too much about if it gets messed up, put a couple of expendable nuts on the solenoid 3/8" lugs and use the screwdriver to jump across 'em. When you are testing, push your start button to engage the starter gears and then, put the screwdriver across the terminals. If it cranks good, it is probably bad contacts in the solenoid. The next thing I would do is check the cables and connections (all of them) and their apparent condition (like, are they really stiff and how does the insulation look and any corrosion at the ends). If ya see something that you don't like, then I suggest #4 size battery cables, all three of 'em. If ya think they are okay, then look at the battery. If you can get another known good battery, test with it installed. You could try jumping from a car battery, just make sure your bikes battery is not connected while jumping from the car. Do you have a good, heavy ground wire installed from the tranny to the frame? I suggest a #6 welding cable type of ground wire there. Next, I would be looking at the starter motor itself.
Last edited by megawatt; Aug 22, 2008 at 03:22 PM.
I found an old thread here in the EVO section about this very thing. Most of the posts claim to have the same problem but never worried about trying to fix it.
I just worry that one time it won't start. I'll check the things mentioned though. Thanks!
I just worry that one time it won't start. I'll check the things mentioned though. Thanks!
Goode Dag, Frisian HD.
Bad battery cable as mentioned, or the cable from the batt to the solenoid, solenoid to starter, engine to chassis, any could be dirty with corrosion. But, in my experience, a weak battery is usually the culpret. A weak battery can show fully charged by voltage, but not have the current needed to crank the motor.
Bad battery cable as mentioned, or the cable from the batt to the solenoid, solenoid to starter, engine to chassis, any could be dirty with corrosion. But, in my experience, a weak battery is usually the culpret. A weak battery can show fully charged by voltage, but not have the current needed to crank the motor.
Just the ''earth''cable from the batterie to the frame........the cable from the -
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I had the same problem on my 88 flst. I changed everything and did everything the other guys suggested, and nothing worked. Needless to say it was getting costly and very frustrating. I had already visually checked the ground from the relay but never actually removed and cleaned. So as I was replacing the solenoid I had fried trying to start the bike one day I was going back over all the wiring and this time I took the ground from the relay off and sanded the contact point on the frame and the eyelet on the wire. Mine was to the back of the oil tank and very easily accessible. It did the trick. I was overjoyed at fixing the problem that had me perplexed for almost a year, but pissed that it was such an easy fix that I overlooked. Good luck on your bike I hope this will help.
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