Finally pulled the trigger on a 113" Ultima
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 64
From: SoCal
There has got to be something keeping the alternator rotor from going on further.
Also, you did shim the engine mounts, right?
If you didn't, don't forget to do that before you tighten everything down completely.
I hope it all works out for you.
Also, you did shim the engine mounts, right?
If you didn't, don't forget to do that before you tighten everything down completely.
I hope it all works out for you.
Last edited by megawatt; Mar 1, 2009 at 05:16 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake, VA
Near as I can tell it is butted up against the spacer coming out of the main seal.
There were no shims on the old engine. Everything seems to be in line. How does one check alignment?
There were no shims on the old engine. Everything seems to be in line. How does one check alignment?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
There are at least two different length "spacers" that can be used. If you have the longer one and need the shorter one the sprocket will stick out too far. I don't have the part numbers, but if I remember right the only difference was the year suffix. To align the sprockets you measure from the lip of the inner primary to the side of the sprocket and shim the front one until it matches the rear. It is explained in the shop manual. I also believe the Ultima manual mentions something about this. Hope this helps.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 64
From: SoCal
It's kind of a tedious, drawn-out procedure. This is the way I was taught to do it.
Loosen all engine, primary and transmission mounts. Tighten the primary to engine and primary to tranny fasteners to pull the engine and tranny into close orientation to each other. Loosen the bolts you just tightened (just break 'em loose). Tighten down the rear engine mounts. Check the front engine mounts (ears) for necessary shims and tighten them down. Tighten the engine to primary and tranny to primary fasteners. Check the tranny mounts for necessary shims and tighten them down.
You won't know what thickness shim stock you will need until you check each position with a feeler gauge. Many people use aluminum shims cut from soda or beer cans. Anything less than .005" I don't worry about.
This procedure assumes the primary case isn't tweaked/twisted.
After all else is shimmed and tightened, fit up your upper engine mount using washers to shim as necessary if there isn't enough "play" in the mount holes. You don't want the upper mount to pull or push the engine any direction as it is tightened.
There are VERY few bikes that don't need some kind of shimming for the mounts.
Loosen all engine, primary and transmission mounts. Tighten the primary to engine and primary to tranny fasteners to pull the engine and tranny into close orientation to each other. Loosen the bolts you just tightened (just break 'em loose). Tighten down the rear engine mounts. Check the front engine mounts (ears) for necessary shims and tighten them down. Tighten the engine to primary and tranny to primary fasteners. Check the tranny mounts for necessary shims and tighten them down.
You won't know what thickness shim stock you will need until you check each position with a feeler gauge. Many people use aluminum shims cut from soda or beer cans. Anything less than .005" I don't worry about.
This procedure assumes the primary case isn't tweaked/twisted.
After all else is shimmed and tightened, fit up your upper engine mount using washers to shim as necessary if there isn't enough "play" in the mount holes. You don't want the upper mount to pull or push the engine any direction as it is tightened.
There are VERY few bikes that don't need some kind of shimming for the mounts.
Last edited by megawatt; Mar 1, 2009 at 09:52 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
I am begining to think that the engine was built to fit 1989 up EVO's. There was a big change in primary such as clutch and alternatior. Running an earlier EVO you could change the charging system from a 22 amp to a 32 amp. You are there right now. The fit of the top end of the engine seems a bit tight. Have you bolted it to the rubber suspension and dialed and aligned it? Don't mind me. I am just trying to help. Good luck. Fossil
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 64
From: SoCal
Fossil,
From looking at the photos IronButt62 posted, it doesn't look like the engine is rubber mounted. Am I wrong?
From looking at the photos IronButt62 posted, it doesn't look like the engine is rubber mounted. Am I wrong?
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake, VA
Rigid mount softail frame. No rubber mounts. Did follow the alignment procedure posted by mega. Couldn't get a.005" feeler under the front mount so I am pressing on.
At this point, the spacer between the rotor and the shaft extension appears to be 3/16", maybe a 1/4" (haven't mic'd it) an I only need 1/8" to align the primary chain. LBS didn't have one so I may take it to the machine shop at work.
At this point, the spacer between the rotor and the shaft extension appears to be 3/16", maybe a 1/4" (haven't mic'd it) an I only need 1/8" to align the primary chain. LBS didn't have one so I may take it to the machine shop at work.
